Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Taimur Ahmad, Patrick O'Donnell, August 2020
Page Views: 636 total · 47/month
Shared By: Taimur Ahmad on Aug 6, 2020
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

A direct start to Copernicus.  Starting on an obvious triangle jug on the arete (jump start or lean in from some boulders), climb four bolts of powerful, core-intensive moves up pinches and underclings on the steep arete left of the chimney which is the original start to Copernicus.  Merge with Copernicus at a good but strenuous stem rest at the fifth bolt.  It's around 5.13- to the stem rest/fifth bolt and a fun and worthy climb in its own right, though likely harder for shorter folks.  Traversing rightwards out of the bolt line and deeper into the chimney at the fifth bolt is off route.  

The climbing on the direct start is fairly unique for Pine Creek - steep and bouldery, on bigger holds, with lots of pinching on the arete and using holds on both sides of it.  al-Shatir climbs the entirety of the 5.13 section of Copernicus, and adds in additional 5.13 climbing, but is broken up by a fairly good if leg-intensive rest.  While definitely harder than doing the original chimney start, for now I am leaving the grade as 5.13+ until consensus is reached.  Regardless of grade, this is a very fun way to start a great route.

Ibn al-Shatir was a 14th century astronomer from Damascus, in present-day Syria, whose work influenced that of Copernicus.  More background can be found here: adsabs.harvard.edu/full/200… and http://articles.adsabs.harvard.edu//full/2007HisSc..45...65R/0000065.000.html. 

Location

Left of the obvious chimney on the right side of the Gecko Wall.  Just right of Biohazard (left hand uses holds on Biohazard for a move or two at the very beginning).  

Protection

13 bolts to a lower-off. 70m rope needed.  Helpful to have the 9th bolt pre-hung with an extended draw or sling. The first bolt can be pre-clipped by leaning over from the chimney.  Belayer should be extra attentive between bolts 4 and 5 as a fall here can bring the climber close to the right-leaning ramp in the chimney.  

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