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Routes in The Cave

Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devine Microphone (aka the Warm-up) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Divine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hey Ladies S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
La Dentista (aka Behemoth) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sugar Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talus Dweller S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Officially Brian Carkeet and Donnie Anderson mid-2000s, but quite possibly climbed earlier
Page Views: 904 total, 12/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Aug 3, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin by climbing up a shallow groove between two columns using face holds and finger locks. Clip the fourth bolt and merge onto the next route to the right. Continue upwards on fun climbing with relatively large holds with short harder sections in between good rests. Quite a fun route.

This route is really a combination of two different 5.12 routes, but since it is the most common warm-up for the area, I have entered it.

Location

Begin on the the sixth route from the left (Mr. Microphone) of the lower tier routes. Keep in mind that although this route starts on the sixth route from the left, it actually starts on the fifth bolt line from the left owing to the fact that two of the routes to the left begin with a shared start. At the fourth bolt, merge onto the next route to the right (Divine).

Protection

Fixed draws and anchors.

Photos

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John,

As you may recall, I've always been "generous" with FA credits (Vicki's getting first ascent credit with me for the new three star 5.10c face I just did at Burst; she belayed and cheered me on).

People love that kind of credit, and as "ascents" have given way to "route creation," strict definitions of who did what don't work as well.

Glad to see you commenting about SPH. Wish you were here more often ;) Sep 19, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Hi Brad!
Good to see you chime in and set me straight :)

My thinking is that Divine and Mr. Microphone went up when, the mid-90's? And given the lack of a proper warm-up route, it seems a little far fetched to believe that Donnie (or Brian) were the first to climb this pitch. Moreover its a linkup, so calling it an FA is a tad generous, especially since the linkup is easier than either of the individual lines. Still, given the crazy lengths you go to in order to get the details of your books right, I would certainly defer to you, so I will change the name above (but I'm still keeping "the warm-up" as a reference 'cause that's what the old curmudgeons who first brought me up there called it and lord knows they have been climbing there since Tommy H. first starting putting routes in!!)

Cheers,
John Sep 19, 2017
John,

That's actually not true. Well it is true that I don't like "unknown" as a "route name." That's a given :)

But this route's name was told to me directly by Don Anderson, one of the first ascent authors. As you know, Don climbs at Column of the Giants a lot. He reviewed my Columns text pretty carefully. The name is his, not mine. Sep 18, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
^^^ Brad just made that name up for the book by combining the route names of the two adjacent climbs because he doesn't like putting "unknown" route "names" in his books. Most folks literally just call it the "warm-up". But to each his own. Sep 18, 2017
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Route name: Divine Microphone (source: SPH guidebook) Sep 18, 2017
This is a good 'un Oct 12, 2015