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Routes in The Witches

Skinny Witch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Witch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: James Garrett and Trevor Feagin, 13 July 2011
Page Views: 1,348 total, 17/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 13, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April Details

Description

This tower gets stars due to position, views, and the old saying that one tower is better than four walls. Wicked Witch is the naughty girl standing in the middle of the group.

Pitch #1: After the short approach and having closed the gate behind you, walk around the tower until you see the line on the north side. Climb up past about 9 bolts to a cruxy bulge at her neck until you are able to stand on top of the Wicked Witches head. 5.9+, 13m.

Expect chossy loose conglomerate at least until the hoards discover these witches and clean her up. The glue-in "unique and special" bolts are absolutely bomber.

Location

This tower is the obvious witch standing alone by herself.

Protection

QDs 10 bolts. Three bolt belay and rappel station on top. Special thanks to Carolina Petrelli for the attentive and patient belay on 11 July 2011 until the line was equipped.
J Saarela
Park City
  5.9 PG13
J Saarela   Park City
  5.9 PG13
Pulled off multiple melon-sized boulders. Climb gently. Very dirty, but the nature of the rock may mean that getting rid of the loose dirt could mean getting rid of the "glue" holding the conglomerate together.... A couple boulders hit my rope, got a couple frayed spots now... choose your belay position carefully.

Did it at night (not a great idea, scary with the falling rock), and the views were nice from the belay as it was a clear night with no moon. Made an entry in the geocacher box at the top. Awesome experience despite some sketchy climbing.

The top 10 ft are the only section that really takes some thinking. Find some great crimps over the top of the bulge.

Gave PG13 due to the continuously falling rock... Nicely protected in terms of bolt spacing though.

Interesting 3 bolt anchor. Left: non-locking perma-biner extended via some webbing. Center: Oval biner awkwardly higher than the other 2 anchor points. Right: 5-6 link chain. My second rappelled using the left perma-biner and the lower link of the chain. Jul 21, 2015
rking101
Evanston, WY
  5.9+
rking101   Evanston, WY
  5.9+
yeah climb these while they still stand i seen pics of them today from 1870 they look the same.. The top felt a little harder then a .9 but good holds are far reach with the left. Then pull up and do a beached whale flop to the top lol thats what i did.

Rap down to reduce rope drag.

Didnt pull down any thing to big but beaware of what you are holding Aug 30, 2012
Steve M Miller
Park City, Ut
 
Steve M Miller   Park City, Ut
 
the bolt spacing is fine it's just the quality of the rock looks like cobble stones are set in the mud Sep 10, 2011
Steve M Miller
Park City, Ut
 
Steve M Miller   Park City, Ut
 
climbed the first 3 bolts pulled off two huge chunks and decided to pull my draws as I down climbed Sep 9, 2011
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
You're definitely a sick man James. That accident must have put something sinister inside you.

Having said that, climb these things now because you don't know how long they're going to be standing. I would recommend rapping off them rather than lowering. Jul 27, 2011