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Routes in Linville River Crag

Bad Monkey T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Casual Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clever Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Creepy Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Default Plan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Entrance Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Variety T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gary's route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hell In A Handbasket T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hemlock Arete T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In there like swimwear... T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's about Time... T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jackpot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Light Thoughts... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slim Pickins' S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Switcharoo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tightsqueeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vaseline Machine Gun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,083 total · 12/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jul 2, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


For the past few years there have been a number of strong climbers to gawk up at this wild roof crack, only to write it off as impossible (at least to reach -- the start is blank). Recently, a friend (Andrew) made a great suggestion -- do a long & pumpy downward traverse across a heel hooking rail to reach the crack... and it actually goes fairly easily, or at least the traverse does! This climb can be done in the rainiest of conditions due to the huge roof features.

Start up and right on top of boulder -- also have your belayer here. Climb past a #.4 camelot and 4 bolts (optional 1" cam) to the crack. The 4th bolt has a fixed draw for now (the bolt is high because of inadequate rock lower). Make a difficult transition into the crack and gain a desperate "rest" on the foot pedestal. Continue out the strenuous horizontal roof crack to an anchor at the lip.

Note: The anchor was originally 15' higher than the current one. It's possible that some gifted climber could pull the final roof (likely at 5.13), but there are some logistical issues with that. I'd be happy to divulge more info if someone is interested.


At the lower wall - obvious wide roof crack that climbs out of cave. It's the rightmost of 3 established lines here.


4 bolts and a #.4 camelot protect the traverse. I used two #4 camelots to protect the roof crack, but anywhere from a #2 to #4 could be used since it is flared.


Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
Nice work Nathan! Jul 6, 2011
You sure "spanked" it that day! Aug 3, 2011
western NC --> Broomfield, CO
nbrown   western NC --> Broomfield, CO
Thanks guys. Phil, I sure do appreciate you photographing it too... Aug 21, 2011

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