All Locations > N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Linville River Crag

Bad Monkey

Name: Bad Monkey
Rating: 3.0

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British

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Routes in Linville River Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bad Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Casual Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chimney Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Clever Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Creepy Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Crimson Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Default Plan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Entrance Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Garden Variety T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gary's route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Hell In A Handbasket T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Hemlock Arete T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	In there like swimwear... T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	It's about Time... T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Jackpot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Light Thoughts... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Slim Pickins' S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Switcharoo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tightsqueeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unnamed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Vaseline Machine Gun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type:	Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS:	35.89766, -81.90086
FA:	NB
Page Views:	2,070 total · 11/month
Shared By:	nbrown on Jul 2, 2011
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

For years a number of strong climbers have gawked up at this wild roof crack only to write it off as "impossible". The start is blank. But recently my friend Andrew made a great suggestion -- do a long and downward traverse in, across a heel hooking rail, to reach the crack. It actually worked. Not only did it work, it actually goes fairly easily this way! This climb can be done in the rainiest of conditions due to the huge roof features.

Start up and right on top of boulder -- also have your belayer here. Climb past a #.4 camelot and 4 bolts (optional 1" cam) to the crack. The 4th bolt has a fixed draw for now (the bolt is high because of inadequate rock lower). Make a difficult transition into the crack and gain a desperate "rest" on the foot pedestal. Continue out the strenuous horizontal roof crack to an anchor at the lip.

Note: The anchor was originally 15' higher than the current one. It's possible that someone could pull the final roof (likely at 5.13), but there would be considerable issues with rope drag and such.

Location

At the lower wall - obvious wide roof crack that climbs out of cave. It's the rightmost of 3 established lines here.

Protection

4 bolts and a #.4 camelot protect the traverse. I used two #4 camelots to protect the roof crack, but anywhere from a #2 to #4 could be used since it is flared.