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Routes in Chuck Wall

After Hours T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
House of Sticks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unexpected Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Chuck Jones, Annie Jones & Mike Varlotta
Page Views: 424 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ryan Mullins on Mar 11, 2011
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

Beginning below the large over hanging flake start climbing the bouldery section to a good stance where you'll place a #1 Camalot sized piece in the crack of the flake. This is the crux of the route. Proceed up the face following the path of least resistance to a large ledge covered in blueberry bushes.

Climb the wall at the back side of the ledge up and past the next small ledge (maybe 2 feet wide) and top out over the next short wall to a large ledge with a pine tree.

Location

This is the first route on Chuck Wall. It lays just a few feet past the staging area mentioned in the crag description.

Descent: Look high into the pine tree at the ledge and you'll see a few rap-rings. Rappel off the face to the start of the climb.

Protection

Nuts: small to medium, maybe a #11
Cams: #0.3, #0.4 x 1; #0.5-#2 x 2 (Camalot C4 sizes)

Photos

Adam Byrd
Morgantown, WV
  5.7
Adam Byrd   Morgantown, WV
  5.7
The large overhanging flake in the description is now on the ground at the start of the route. Starting the route is the crux, the first few moves are now 5.7-, PG13 . There's a marginal placement for a #1 Camalot, but it might not keep you off the ground until you can get in a good nut 15-20' up. Aug 15, 2014
Mark'Indy' Kochte  
  5.7 R
Concur that since the block fell at the start crux moves back in 2011 this route is now 5.7 with a bit of a sketch runout until you can get 20-ish feet up. Planning on installing a bolt to better protect the crux moves. FYI, the webguide was updated a few years back with the notice about the block detachment and the difficulty grade up-tick. Aug 30, 2014
Burton Rosenberger
Woodbridge, va
Burton Rosenberger   Woodbridge, va
EDIT: Bolt is now in place, beta no longer required.
Added red webbing to existing rings and added date to the tail for reference.

youtube.com/watch?v=9j5bR0P… Jun 27, 2017

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