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Routes in Chuck Wall

After Hours T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
House of Sticks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unexpected Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Chuck Jones, Annie Jones & Mike Varlotta
Page Views: 387 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ryan Mullins on Mar 11, 2011
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 temporary falcon closure Details

Description

Beginning below the large over hanging flake start climbing the bouldery section to a good stance where you'll place a #1 Camalot sized piece in the crack of the flake. This is the crux of the route. Proceed up the face following the path of least resistance to a large ledge covered in blueberry bushes.

Climb the wall at the back side of the ledge up and past the next small ledge (maybe 2 feet wide) and top out over the next short wall to a large ledge with a pine tree.

Location

This is the first route on Chuck Wall. It lays just a few feet past the staging area mentioned in the crag description.

Descent: Look high into the pine tree at the ledge and you'll see a few rap-rings. Rappel off the face to the start of the climb.

Protection

Nuts: small to medium, maybe a #11
Cams: #0.3, #0.4 x 1; #0.5-#2 x 2 (Camalot C4 sizes)

Photos

Adam Byrd
Morgantown, WV
  5.7
Adam Byrd   Morgantown, WV
  5.7
The large overhanging flake in the description is now on the ground at the start of the route. Starting the route is the crux, the first few moves are now 5.7-, PG13 . There's a marginal placement for a #1 Camalot, but it might not keep you off the ground until you can get in a good nut 15-20' up. Aug 15, 2014
Mark'Indy' Kochte  
  5.7 R
Concur that since the block fell at the start crux moves back in 2011 this route is now 5.7 with a bit of a sketch runout until you can get 20-ish feet up. Planning on installing a bolt to better protect the crux moves. FYI, the webguide was updated a few years back with the notice about the block detachment and the difficulty grade up-tick. Aug 30, 2014
Burton Rosenberger
Woodbridge, va
Burton Rosenberger   Woodbridge, va
You can protect the first crux using a yellow totem cam in the crack just left of the first mini roof.

The placement is solid but slightly offset so the equivalent size gray BD C4 will likely not work well here.

I did notice upon stepping up on this ledge someone attempted to drill a bolt hole slightly to the left of where I placed my cam.

On a side note totem cams rock at this location where as I find myself fiddling with my C4's too much to get them in a nice place.

youtube.com/watch?v=9j5bR0P…

Placement of yellow totem on Unexpected Party 5.7 R protecting lower crux


Second placement location as seen from standing on the first placement ledge


Second placement using right pocket and red totem cam, would likely work with orange as well


From the last pictured ledge there is what I believe to be the good nut placement just to right on a vertical crack at shoulder height. From the "marked" picture you can see the placement options upper right in the picture but be careful with the "top" white looking rock as it is hollow sounding and loose; as well as VERY big.

With these it seems a lot safer but I didn't fall on anything. I did ensure the belayer kept me tight and knew the "go/no-go" for them to run backwards. There is great multi-directional pieces at ground level to prevent zippering. Jun 27, 2017

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