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Routes in The Arete

Raven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Cody Peterson and Chris Fralick, 2004
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Phalanges on Dec 16, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A long, amazingly consistent face climb of 10a moves all the way to the top. If you like the grade it's not to be missed, but the repetitive moves also get boring. The crux is gaining access to the arete right off the belay ledge.

Location

Approach from the gully between The Arete and Main Street to a belay on a ledge with a madrone tree. Or rappel from top anchors accessed from short, although precarious) route on the saddle at top of spire (See area description before attempting). FIND THE CENTER OF YOUR ROPE before rappelling.

Protection

10 Bolts to double bolted anchors. Watch for sharp volcanic rock.

Photos

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Ivan Hartert
Eugene, OR
 
Ivan Hartert   Eugene, OR
 
crux definitely at the start. felt easyish for a 5.10a possibly because it is not too steep. fun face moves with a lot of good feet placements. definitely recommend rappelling from top to climb rather than bushwhack the “trail”. 4 days ago

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