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Routes in The Shrub

New Slang T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Regional Dialect T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slang S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Paul Piana 10/89
Page Views: 559 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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11 Opinions

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Description

Begin with some moderate climbing and work your way into a strenuous undercling, at the third bolt, to prepare for the seam transfer. I personally find this crux move really difficult. Hard to trust the poor footholds. Then lieback and smear up past the hollow flake to a good rest. Navigate your way up a slightly tricky finish with one more really cool move to reach the anchors. A Piana classic that deserves more attention.

Location

On the north face of The Shrub, follows the left seam just left of the steepest and streaked part of the wall.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 cold shut anchors.

Photos

Great route but hard for the 12- grade I thought (especially if you have a short wingspan I bet!)...Easy start to a powerful clip and then a V5 sequence, a good rest and cool 11- climbing to finish. Sep 18, 2013