Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: September 1, 1923
Page Views: 3,406 total · 34/month
Shared By: bill urbanski on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Trail to Mystic Lake (7600') covers ~3 miles and ~1300' in elevation gain. Hike down to Mystic Lake to meet up with Phantom Creek Trail, turning left at cairn. Follow trail to "Switchbacks from Hell" (26 total, gaining ~2500' in <3 miles) to massive cairn above treeline. Continue upward to Froze-to-Death Plateau, a gradually sloping plateau ranging from 10,500' - 12,000'. Traverse FTD Plateau (route finding is difficult in barren area as no dedicated trail exists) to highcamp west of Tempest Mountain (~11,600').

Climb above highcamp to crest near large rock/wind shelters. Descend to saddle; class 3/4 scramble up other side staying just left of and high on ridge line. Cross snow/dirt bridge and begin climbing chimneys to another ridge. Slight downclimb/scramble towards final face. Class 4/5 moves up towards "keyhole" after which you will see the summit block. 3-4 rap stations for quicker decsent.


some extra webbing/slings to set up belay across some highly exposed areas (if desired), and to back up anchors for rappel


Scott Stevenson
  Easy 5th
Scott Stevenson   SLC, UT
  Easy 5th
Really fun beginner Alpine route. We soloed up and rapped down. I would say that once you cross the snow bridge its about 6-8 pitches of 4th class with some easy 5th class moves above exposure. We did 5 rappels back to the snow bridge. Absolutely fantastic mountain and range!! Nov 22, 2014
What kind/length of rope is necessary for the rappels? Sep 7, 2016
bill urbanski
Kingston, PA
bill urbanski   Kingston, PA
I used 60m, which is almost twice the length needed for most of the rap stations (there are about 5-6 of them). To cut down on weight I used my 1/2 rope (8.5mm) rather than my regular 10.2mm rock climbing rope. Sep 9, 2016
Scott Stevenson
  Easy 5th
Scott Stevenson   SLC, UT
  Easy 5th
I second what Bill said. We used a 60m rope, but had lots extra... I'd guess a 8.5mm, 70m cut in half would be perfect. Jan 30, 2017
Rob Runkle
West Chester Township, Butl…
Rob Runkle   West Chester Township, Butl…
Would a 30m rope be enough for the rappels? I have a 30m Gym rope and would much rather bring that, versus my 60m. Jun 1, 2017
cody, wy
JonBates   cody, wy
60m is overkill and 30m will require some fairly technical down climbing. I've done it with a 30m tag line to go with another 30m rope and with a 40m rope. Down climbing "the pitch" kinda sucks. Sep 5, 2017
Carter French
Missoula, MT
Carter French   Missoula, MT
does anyone know of any harder climbs on granite Apr 2, 2018
Dallin Carey
Dallin Carey   Missoula
@Carter French The North Face of Granite has 3 reported routes. Apr 9, 2018