Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: September 1, 1923
Page Views: 4,009 total · 37/month
Shared By: bill urbanski on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Trail to Mystic Lake (7600') covers ~3 miles and ~1300' in elevation gain. Hike down to Mystic Lake to meet up with Phantom Creek Trail, turning left at cairn. Follow trail to "Switchbacks from Hell" (26 total, gaining ~2500' in <3 miles) to massive cairn above treeline. Continue upward to Froze-to-Death Plateau, a gradually sloping plateau ranging from 10,500' - 12,000'. Traverse FTD Plateau (route finding is difficult in barren area as no dedicated trail exists) to highcamp west of Tempest Mountain (~11,600').

Climb above highcamp to crest near large rock/wind shelters. Descend to saddle; class 3/4 scramble up other side staying just left of and high on ridge line. Cross snow/dirt bridge and begin climbing chimneys to another ridge. Slight downclimb/scramble towards final face. Class 4/5 moves up towards "keyhole" after which you will see the summit block. 3-4 rap stations for quicker decsent.

Protection

some extra webbing/slings to set up belay across some highly exposed areas (if desired), and to back up anchors for rappel

Photos