East Ridge

Approach: The most common approach is from West Rosebud Creek. Follow the trail to Mystic Lake (7600 feet, ~3 miles and ~1300' feet in elevation gain). Hike down to Mystic Lake, then west to the junction with Phantom Creek Trail. Follow the trail up 26 switchbacks and about 2500' in about 3 miles to where the trail crosses a shoulder and you can look north onto the plains. Turn off the trail into a small draw climbing west at 9900 feet (12T 598264E  5007684N). 

Follow the draw a short distance, then turn left (south) and work up onto Froze to Death Plateau. You might not freeze to death, and it isn't a flat plateau. Traverse west across FTD Plateau, following intermittent tread and a regular line of cairns. You can reliably find water below a year-round snowfield at 10,700 feet (12T 597610E  5005948N) and less reliably in small streams from intermittent snowfields. In early season, the FTD plateau can be wet. You can also find rock walls for sheltered (sorta) camping across the plateau. The most common campsites are around 11,700 feet and at 12,000 feet, just before the route drops off the FTD Plateau towards Tempest Col. 

One can also start from the East Rosebud side of the FTD plateau. Start at the Phantom Creek TH just north of East Rosebud Lake, and hike the gradual trail leading to the east end of the FTD Plateau.  You gain about 4,000 feet in about 6.5 miles, and then follow the beta above to get to Granite Peak. This trail gains about 500 more in elevation, but doesn't go up any "switchbacks from hell" !!

Route: The traditional name for this route - the east ridge - is something of a misnomer. Above 12,200 feet, the route stays well below the crest of the east ridge. It crosses a series of ribs or fingers on the south face, with short pitches up corners followed by traverses to the next rib. The final short climb is to the south ridge of the peak a hundred or so feet below the summit.

From the rock tent shelters at 12,000 feet, drop down and southwest across a steep talus and scree field. There is intermittent tread and occasional cairns, though the route changes annually. In early, season, you may find a few steep snow sections. Aim for the low point on the ridge connecting Tempest Mountain and Granite Peak at approximately 11,475 feet (Tempest Col).

Cross Tempest Col to its south side, then descend briefly on ledges and scree. From here, start climbing up Granite Peak's east Ridge. The route varies with snow conditions. After the first few hundred feet (sometimes loose gullies), it's generally most efficient to stay near the climber's left side of the ridge crest (Class 2-3, with steep snow in early season). The route steepens for the last few hundred feet below a shoulder at about 12,100 feet. 

Once atop this shoulder, the main bulk of Granite Peak appears, and it can be intimidating. Drop down ledges to climber's right, then traverse to a small, often-snow-covered col ("The Snow Bridge"). In late season, this is mostly dirt. From The Snow Bridge, traverse left and slightly down, then up about 40 m to solid ledge with a rappel anchor. The bottom of this pitch is loose but the rock quality improves as you climb. Traverse a series of ledges and climb short corners on the south side of the ridge, well below the ridge crest. Cross through a small notch, then traverse ledges to a wide dirt patch below a steep face, which is the technical crux of the route. 

Start up flakes to the left, traverse right on a small ledge with good handholds above, then up a steep face between two shallow dihedrals. Several bulges in this face can feel awkward. Aim for the right side near the top. This 40 m of climbing is about 5.4, but it is exposed. 

From the top of this pitch, there are several variations to the summit, Most work up ledges and corners towards a keyhole on the south ridge, just below the summit. One variation has an awkward mantle onto a flat ledge from a boulder. Climb a corner below the keyhole to the south ridge, passing the keyhole on climber's left. Work up easier terrain the last hundred feet or so to the summit. 

Descent typically involves reversing the route, with a rappel or two down the crux and the first dirty pitch above The Snow Bridge. 

some extra webbing/slings to set up belay across some highly exposed areas (if desired), and to back up anchors for rappel