All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Otis Peak > Fire Tower

Der Sudwand Buttress

Name: Der Sudwand Buttress
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

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Routes in Fire Tower

	Der Sudwand Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	I Thought You Had It? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	40.2922, -105.6805
FA:	Chris Burk, Jason Killgore, Joe Sambataro (09/11/2010)
Page Views:	989 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Jason Killgore on Sep 21, 2010
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Maybe some/all of this has been climbed before, maybe not. We didn't see any evidence on route, but aside from a few trundled holds, we didn't leave any either.

Pitch 1. From the large ledge at the base of the buttress, climb intermittent cracks up and right to the large, RFC. Ascend the steep, RFC via big holds, exiting left at the top to a good belay stance. (5.7)

Pitch 2. From the belay ascend up and left via ledges and short corners until it is possible to move back right to the prow on good, but slightly runout holds. Belay on the large ledge directly below the obvious roof.

Pitch 3. Traverse to the right side of the ledge and ascend the thin crack to just below the roof. Place good gear and move right on an exciting, undercling traverse to gain an obvious, right-facing corner. Ascend the corner. We belayed below a short 5' headwall due to rope drag. (Awesome 5.9)

Pitch 4. Climb the short challenging headwall, then ascend easier terrain to the top of the buttress. (5.8)

Location

Climb ascends obvious buttress.

We descended by hiking west until past the true summit of Otis Peak, then descending the scree gully to Andrew's Glacier/Tarn.