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Routes in Rex Rock

Rex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Mike Rigney & Brad Singer, 1992, FFA: Dave LePere, October 2000
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 8, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Orignally done as a 5.11 A0 route this route was later freed and named after Dave's dog which seems appropriate as you need to tap the animal inside to succeed on this technical line.

Easy moves gain the first bolt and then it's on as you negotiate the super thin crimps and sparse feet of the barely vertical crux which is more like a V5 boulder problem. Once past the crux the difficulty eases and it's no harder than 5.11 to the top.

A decent route but it's a brief crux, the rock is not the best and it's sorely lacking in continuity which merits it a star at best.

Location

Just off the road on the west side of the formation. A minor bushwhack may be necessary to access the base of the route.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Ah...great story regarding the origin of the route's name and digging deep to harness the inner beast to succeed. I love it when climber's name routes after their dogs (eg. Casey at the Bat, Sasha, Poodles Are People Too). RIP, Rex. Jul 12, 2015