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Cracker Jack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hang on to your Ego S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Murder Face S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
No Name S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 22, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

I honestly wish I could say this climb alone is worth the hike up, but alas, the approach wins that battle. Still, if you've done all the standard greasy 10's in Logan canyon and need another new option and a cool destination, this might be it.

Find the obvious roof split with a crack beneath it that trends right and then straight up around it. Establish yourself underneath the roof and enjoy thrilling jams and underclings while traversing with minimal feet out to the right. Then pull out the side of the roof, now utilizing the crack in a lieback fashion. Follow it up to the chains. Brilliant! Lead it on gear for a real thrill.

Location

The clearly apparent crack/roof bolted line.

Protection

Bolts, chains

Photos

Brian Hestetune
Logan, UT
 
Brian Hestetune   Logan, UT
 
This is easily one of my favorite 10s I have done in the canyon. I found the slab traverse into the roof around the second bolt to be the crux. Of course, you could try under clinging out the roof from the get go, but I found a plethora of very terrible rock stuffed in the crack between the 1st and 2nd bolt.

I really fell in love with this climb. It climbs like a trad route ( I guess it should be). I will agree with Spencer in that unfortunately this route alone isn't worth the hike. Aug 6, 2012