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Routes in The Helmet

Adventures of Nad and Huck, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't My First Rodeo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brain Bucket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critical Mass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crossing, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Danny Likes Men S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Demolition Derby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dwarf Toss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
El Torito S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freeloader S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Clean S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Climb For Old Men S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pregnant Pause S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Route S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Vince Bates, JBaker, Josie Becker, May 2008
Page Views: 2,339 total · 23/month
Shared By: jbak . on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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From near the El Torito anchors you can see a line of letter-boxes, slopers and rails heading straight right out the 20+ foot ceiling to the center of the roof. When I realized it might go I was amazed. This extension was dubbed "Chain Gang" by EFR and that has stuck.

If you start on Dwarf Toss and finish on Chain Gang, you have done one long, hard line that is completely independent of El Torito and the other cave routes... Freeloader.

Vince came up with the name to underscore the fact that I did all the drilling, cleaning and reinforcement, but he bagged the FA. He's a funny man.

The route has about a dozen overhead heel-hooks and foot-cams, and is totally insane. The crux is at the end (as it should be) with a 10 foot V5 boulder problem along the rail to turn the lip of the cave.




jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
A somewhat easier way to do the amazing Chain Gang extension is to start on El Torito but don't quite go to the anchor. Instead, slide over to Chain Gang. It's still 5.13-, still 4 stars, and maybe more fun than Freeloader. Apr 27, 2010

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