Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Vince Bates, JBaker, Josie Becker, May 2008
Page Views: 2,365 total · 22/month
Shared By: jbak . on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

From near the El Torito anchors you can see a line of letter-boxes, slopers and rails heading straight right out the 20+ foot ceiling to the center of the roof. When I realized it might go I was amazed. This extension was dubbed "Chain Gang" by EFR and that has stuck.

If you start on Dwarf Toss and finish on Chain Gang, you have done one long, hard line that is completely independent of El Torito and the other cave routes... Freeloader.

Vince came up with the name to underscore the fact that I did all the drilling, cleaning and reinforcement, but he bagged the FA. He's a funny man.

The route has about a dozen overhead heel-hooks and foot-cams, and is totally insane. The crux is at the end (as it should be) with a 10 foot V5 boulder problem along the rail to turn the lip of the cave.

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Photos

jbak .
tucson,az
  5.13-
jbak .   tucson,az
  5.13-
A somewhat easier way to do the amazing Chain Gang extension is to start on El Torito but don't quite go to the anchor. Instead, slide over to Chain Gang. It's still 5.13-, still 4 stars, and maybe more fun than Freeloader. Apr 27, 2010