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Routes in The Helmet

Adventures of Nad and Huck, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't My First Rodeo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brain Bucket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critical Mass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crossing, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Danny Likes Men S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Demolition Derby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dwarf Toss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
El Torito S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freeloader S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Clean S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Climb For Old Men S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pregnant Pause S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Route S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 6,900 ft
GPS: 32.378, -110.704 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,673 total, 72/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 25, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

A fun little crag with some unusual routes. Mt Lemmons's answer to the Frog Prince area at Datil.

Easy to see as you drive up the Mt Lemmon Highway. It looks like a helmet sitting up on the slope in front of you as you drive past Col. Birdseye.

Morning shade.

The crag is west-facing with a vertical face on the left, and a shallow cave on the right.

It's a good idea to check the nuts on chain-draw hangers frequently. Let me know if any are loose.

Not a big deal in our dry climate, but FWIW this crag is totally stainless steel.

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There is some confusion (my fault) about route naming in the cave:

Chain Gang - the name EFR gave to the roof chains.

No Climb For Old Men = El Torito start + Chain Gang
Freeloader = Dwarf Toss start + Chain Gang

Getting There

Park just down-road from the Window. Same as for Middle Earth. I'll post a map. 10 min approach.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Helmet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Demolition Derby
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Torito
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Crossing
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dwarf Toss
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
No Climb For Old Men
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Demolition Derby 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
El Torito 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Crossing 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dwarf Toss 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
No Climb For Old Men 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Helmet »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
My understanding of the routes from left to right:

Vertical Routes
~~~
Adventures of Nad & Huck 9
Brain Bucket 10b/c
Ain't My First Rodeo 11a
Danny Likes Men 10d
Critical Mass 11b
Tony's Route 11b/c (Shares first 3 bolts w/ Critical Mass)
Mr Clean 10d

Cave Routes
~~~
El Torito 12a/b
Dwarf Toss 12c
Freeloader 13a (Dwarf Toss + Chain Gang Extension)
The Crossing 12b
Demolition Derby 12a/b Jun 5, 2011
jbak  
Thanks Joe... I'll take credit for expending the most effort and $$$, but Joe Shiefman was the guy who lit the fire under this crag. He had to badger me for like 5 years before I would go up and take a look.

Cres and EFR helped a lot too. Cres did a lot of cleaning and Eric did some drilling and provided mental health services. May 5, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Although some people complain about the choss, I really like this area. Super steep climbing on mostly good rock, beautiful views and fun exposure. I only wish the cave was much, much bigger with more and longer routes. Big thanks to the developers, as I can only imagine how much effort went into cleaning and bolting these routes!

More beta for the approach: Head up the same gully as you take for Middle Earth. Near the top of the ridgeline, look for a trail the heads a little left (Middle Earth trail heads off to the right). Follow the trail to top of ridge, then down to Helmet. May 5, 2010

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