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Routes in Front Slabs

Born Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Web T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Did It My Way TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoshone Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Wise Men (aka Three Blind Mice) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Tom Beck and Julie Brenner
Page Views: 940 total · 9/month
Shared By: Thomas Beck on Mar 5, 2010 with updates from bclow
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description

Follow the bolts up the slab to left of black streak to Chain Anchors at 140 ft.

Location

Keyhole Canyon on Slabby Wall south of the canyon entrance, Park directly opposite. Rap the route with 2 ropes or 1. rap to anchors on Born Talking and 2. rap to ground

Protection

14 bolts - take 4 longer slings for rope drag.
Hanging station

Update (2018): Bolts have been chopped. Goes on gear at heads-up pg13. Small cams and what is probably a number 2 camalot for the crux.

Photos

ClimbingRose
  5.7
ClimbingRose  
  5.7
You'll need 16 quickdraws for this route. Jan 30, 2011
Jared R
 
Jared R  
 
I was there on March 17th, 2012 and there were anchor bolts at about 100 feet up on the large ledge for toproping. I added 2 quicklinks, cordalette and a rap ring for the decent. Fun route with a committing crux. The first pitch is about 5.8 with 12 bolts. The route is overall easier than 5.8, but the Crux is a committing 5.8 move and is super fun. Mar 20, 2012
bclow  
Bolts have all been chopped. As of now, calling this pg13 is generous, the leader is looking at big falls on questionable gear. Thankfully, the majority of the climbing is closer to 5.6 and the crux protects pretty well. Route finding is the biggest concern. The first couple bolt holes (now filled) are barely visible if you look closely, but if you get off route you might end up in an I-wonder-what-my-last-words-should-be situation. In hopes of avoiding potential accidents: Start just left of the black water streak, climb until you can walk left on a ramp, then head for the rightmost section of the obvious undercling in the bulge above. Pull the bulge, try to coax a nut into a pocket, then angle right to where the section of the next roof has a blackened water chute. If you can't sweet talk the nut into place you're making one or two friction moves looking at a 50 footer, but who knows if that nut you could have keyholed on the lip of the pocket would hold anyway. The climbing is fun, but take care. May 6, 2018

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