Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,848 total · 26/month
Shared By: w.y.hummel on Jan 13, 2010 with updates from Duc Ong
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the most difficult routes at the crag, and also the best route.

You start up very featured rock to the first bolt, which is on the underside of the overhang. A powerful move with your left hand to a pocket is followed by an even more physical move with your right hand blindly around the arete. There are a few series of edges and crimps you can use to bump your right hand high and move your feet up. From there, it's another long move to an obvious jug on the top of the overhang (short people may have a problem with this move). The beginning is definitely the hardest part of the climb, and once you get over the first overhang, you can stand on a big ledge for as long as you need.

After that, it's a pretty easy climb up and over another roof. To get over the roof, you can go around to the right, where you'll encounter a series of crimpy holds. Some people may find it's easier to go straight up the overhang, and this can be a spot for some crowd-pleasing heel hooks and mantels.

This is route nine on the topo.

Protection

Sport - The first bolt is a bit of a tough clip (I've seen a fall before making the first clip).

Photos

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.10b/c PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.10b/c PG13
Went straight over the 2nd roof/overhang. One of the two best routes at this crag. Feb 4, 2014
Duc Ong
Honolulu, Hawaii
  5.9 PG13
Duc Ong   Honolulu, Hawaii
  5.9 PG13
Original name is Snaggletooth, rated 5.9 by old-timers! Sep 12, 2014
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
5.10+ PG13
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
5.10+ PG13
The start is NOT 5.9. Dec 28, 2014
Chris Blodgett
seattle
Chris Blodgett   seattle
First two clips are sketchy. Make sure you have a solid(heavy) belayer to make the second clip. Dec 14, 2015
Burny J
 
Burny J  
 
The beta in the description is spot on for the second clip. This one route was worth the climb up. Feb 11, 2018