Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Rock

Far Left S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,286 total, 23/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the far left route where the only anchors we saw were at. The route is pretty clean. watch for small rocks to break, all the big holds were solid. There was some chossy dirt to the right for most of the route. There are 2 little vertical sections you have to pull over and up back to the slabby part and these felt like 5.8 moves. There are also some reachy moves and lots of mantles and hand foot matches because I used the bigger holds and avoided the small ones that could pop. But most of the climbing is fun 5.6 moves.

Location

The route is on the far left. Belay behind the trees so you don't get hit by rocks.

Protection

8 bolts to the top, it's a little runout between bolts Since it is over 120 feet there's a belay station 1/2 way up to rap down from the top w/ 1 60 m rope. A 70 m might make it all the way down from the top anchors.
Carlos S
Corona
  5.8
Carlos S   Corona
  5.8
This is a fun climb to do at sunset and if you live in the area. You get a cool view of the city from the top.

We did it in one pitch with a 70m rope. Communication becomes nonexistent after the first set of anchors because of all the freeway noise, so be sure to have a game plan before you set off on the climb. The climb itself is very easy with the only "hard" part being getting on the wall. The bolt spacing is pretty far out and might spook some new leaders, but like I said it's an easy climb. The last bolt is sketchy to say the least; clipping it is just lying to yourself. I ran it out. I will say this, be aware of rocks popping off the wall. I almost took a nasty whip because a foothold popped off. Have your belayer wear a helmet. Mar 3, 2017
Tried it and was kinda spooky. Run out but easy. Man you really don't want one of the little nubs to give out of you cause that will cheese grate grind u really bad. A 70m WILL NOT make it to the bottom from the top. Learned the hard way. Had to down climb cause the half way of a 70m is at the rusty bolt and I was not about to lower off that, then use a bail beaner and lower off 1 bolt which was solid but still. Prob would have been ok to go to the the top and get lowered to the belay station but with the FWY noise there was no communication possible so my belayer didn't let me go higher when she reached half way point and I couldn't tell her to go ahead and let me up lower etc. Mar 30, 2015
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
Sweet. Jan 27, 2013
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
 
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
 
I recently bolted this route. I did it a few times on TR and then apartment complex behind Eagle Rock built a big death fence you'd have to climb over. So instead of dealing with that and trespassing I bolted this line. The rock is chossy, but this line is more solid than some stuff at Texas Canyon or Echo Cliffs. I put a belay station in 1/2 way so you can multipitch it for more fun and so you can rap off with 1 60m rope. All the anchors and bolts are bomber 3/8 except for the very last one which is an old rusty 1/4. But I think that bolt was used to TR the route and once you climb past it, it's really easy to get to the anchors. Jan 24, 2013