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Routes in Eagle Rock

Far Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,000 ft
GPS: 34.143, -118.184 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,248 total · 62/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Eagle Rock is a 120 ft tall dome of conglomerate rock. Most of the holds are solid but a few of the little ones can pop out. It's pretty similar to Texas Canyon choss, but not as many pockets or as many routes. Nothing special but fun to try if you live near by.

Getting There

From the 134 East or West exit San Rafael and head south and make a quick left onto Colorado. Then go about 1/4 mile and make a left onto Patrician Way and go over the freeway. Then make the first left down Eagle Rock View Drive and park at the bottom.

Approach- 1 min walk to the Base. Or Walk to the base and then up the hill to the right and solo a 30 ft 5.5 over a wrought iron fence laced with barb wire to set up a TR.

1 Total Climbs

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I climbed this route a few times over a year ago (my in-laws are close by) and it's a really fun route. The freeway noise really sucks, but the climbing is super fun.
Tristin, first, thanks for putting this up, I really appreciate it and your time, effort, and money. I don't mean to be a dick, and I hate to criticize, but I do have to question the bolt spacing and the anchors. On rock this chossy, it's too runout at the grade. If it was on bomber granite it would be reasonable, but that's not the case here. Also, it's disingenuous to have built-in runouts when you had climbed the route previous to bolting it. If the climbing through those sections was significantly easier, no problem, but it's not, it's at the grade and I believe valid stances were skipped, especially given the nature of the rock. When I climbed it, the first anchor had webbing on it, which is way too high profile and not cool (sounds like not your doing), and it seemed a strange choice of both location and materials- hence people leaving webbing. The top anchor had the chain oriented wrong and was potential for a stuck rope. Also, I would have placed the 1st anchor at 30m and the 2nd at the top, for convenience and since it's essentially a sport route.
I'll probably climb it again. Jun 4, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Tristan.....we appreciate the sarcasm, but as Jesse didn't respond it's likely it didn't register.

Jesse....Eagle Rock was a well documented destination by Sierra Club Rock Climbing Section (RCS) members back in the 1930s, as was Mt. Pacifico and the north face of Strawberry Peak, but many factors have resulted in their lapsing into obscurity. Before you start throwing up anchors and developing routes, please note that despite Eagle Rock's high visibility, prominent location, and ease of access there is ONE documented route on the rock!!!! Please consider the many venues further away from Los Angeles then Eagle Rock, like Malibu Creek, Riverside Quarry, Big Rock, Texas Canyon, Echo Cliffs, Williamson Rock, Saddle Peak, and Tunnel Crag have been developed, while Eagle Rock has remained relatively untouched for decades.
Could generations of route developers in Southern California have overlooked it?? It's not likely that Royal Robbins, Bob Kamps, Randy Vogel, Dave Katz, Bill Leventhal, Louie Anderson, Jeff Constine, Scott Loomis, Mike Draper, Tony Yeary, Spider Savage, and many other route developers, with ties to the Los Angeles Area, have just overlooked the potential of Eagle Rock and not had a hand in putting up scores of routes there. It's just my humble opinion, but it feels like that $100 investment that Tristan makes reference to may not be a solid use of your $$$$$. Jun 3, 2015
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
You're totally right. Spending $100 to bolt a route and putting it up on mountain project for others to enjoy is really selfish. Jun 1, 2015
I never rappel directly off of bolt hangars. I've been taught to always use a quicklink or caribeaner.
Say what you will but you will deck out in an ugly way if you fall before the second bolt, and the third isn't a whole lot better. I know reaching the second bolt is one of the most dangerous spots on any climb but this was unnecessary and probably selfishly motivated.
On one hand it's an easy route I could walk up blindfolded, on the other is why if it's not safe. To get a good look at the freeway? May 30, 2015
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
The first pitch is only 30 ft, it's runout but not that wild.

Please don't put up any routes because it doesn't seam like you know what you are doing. The first set of anchors is a bolt with a quicklink and chain and the other "bolt" is a metolious rap hanger that you can thread your rope through and rap or lower off from. May 30, 2015
A few things to note about this place:

The first few lead bolts are spaced very far apart. I'd say the first two are at about 13 feet and then 30 feet. It's definitely not somewhere you want to fall. the rock is a little chossy, very much so on the back of the dome.
Tons of broken glass everywhere
There is a possibility for many more routes there.
60 meter rope is far too short to rappel down with the rope doubled. Only one anchor at each clip has a chain-- the other is just a bolt hangar, so you may want to donate a quick link.
Cool spot I want to put up a few more abchors soon. May 29, 2015
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
I bolted this route like a year ago so you can climb it without hopping a fence. It's a little chossy, but I've climbed worse at Texas Canyon.

The route also has a belay station half way up so you can multipitch it. Also since its like 120ff tall you only need 1 60m rope.

Basically nothing special but fun to do if you live near by and want to climb something new of get a lap in after work. Aug 20, 2013
Tom Beckley
Arcadia, CA
Tom Beckley   Arcadia, CA
have lead climbed the main route on the left of the rock a couple times now and im over it, to chossy, maybe a fun top rope spot if you have a couple hours to spare Aug 19, 2013
Tom Beckley
Arcadia, CA
Tom Beckley   Arcadia, CA
Does anyone know if this is still alright to climb ? has been a couple years since anyone has posted May 16, 2013
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
They put up a rod iron fence at the top of the stairs so now you need to hop a fence to get up to the top... Jun 19, 2010
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
This place has potential for a few more routes if there were anchors at the top. Pulling over the big roof would be rad. Also right next to the stairs there are some vertical routes that could be cool too. But just like Stoney, even if there were lead bolts I wouldn't trust them.

If anyone has any info on this place hit me up. Or if you have a drill and want to try some new routes I'm down. Oct 21, 2009

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