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Routes in The Slot

Bad Company T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Global Warming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heat Stroke T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shine On T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 115 ft
FA: William Penner and Mick Schein (2008)
Page Views: 806 total, 8/month
Shared By: William Penner on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

  • *This route is 110' long, use a 70m rope or two ropes to get back down, even then you need to watch the ends carefully.

The route right of the obvious dihedral (Shine On) with a fixed nut at its start (EDIT: no longer there as of 6-13). Climbs a shallow dihedral and roofs to an upper headwall with mostly bolts for protection. Two bolts for anchors with chains and lowering biners are shared with Shine On.

One of the best 5.11 pitches in the Sandias.

Location

  • *This route is 110' long, use a 70m rope or two ropes to get back down, even then you need to watch the ends carefully.

Protection

Standard rack with lots of nuts, a 0.5 camalot for the headwall, and at least one big piece (4 Friend or camalot).

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
The nut at the start that I used and was pretty easy to place was a #7 DMM Off-Set (the smallest aluminum one, gold). Just grab the big left hand jug, put your feet on and stand up, it should slot in about 2/3 of the way up an 8-10" section of crack that you can just reach holding the wire.

On the other hand if it is really a safety issue, and the landing is bad, ....

Additionally, there is a spot on the upper wall where 2 bolts are quite some distance apart, whatever the size alien bigger than red, or possibly the red master cam would be great to have there. Jun 7, 2013
The fixed stopper fell out. Randall has it if Mick wants it back. A spot at the start may be worthwhile. Jun 24, 2010