Type: Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 42.86573, -109.29769
FA: Fred Beckey, Layton Kor, 1963
Page Views: 10,000 total · 50/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


10 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is the best line in the central Winds, especially if parties keep to the crest of the upper arete. It's character is that of a mountaineering rock climb, with route finding issues, sometimes unpredictably wet patches, but still, generally enjoyable climbing on good rock. The final pitches provide withering exposure and wonderful movement up sustained cracks and chimneys. Ledges are timely and comfortable.
The first ascent climbed the shady rock left of the crest to finish, slightly easier but worthy rock. The shade is generally unappealing.
Start up the chimney/couloir mentioned in "Location", and trend left after a pitch, continuing up the lower half of the buttress (occasional 5.8) following cracks to the laid back central section.
Scramble to the base of the upper arete, then continue upwards, on or a little right of the crest to the the summit. 5.9-5.10, 4 or 5 pitches.

Location Suggest change

The west face is a complex wall above Baptiste Lake and is separated into two distinct buttresses separated at the bottom by a chimney/couloir. The West Buttress route ascends the left one.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with cams to 3" and runners should do the job.

Photos

loading