Type: Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Fred Beckey, Layton Kor, 1963
Page Views: 8,749 total · 55/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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This is the best line in the central Winds, especially if parties keep to the crest of the upper arete. It's character is that of a mountaineering rock climb, with route finding issues, sometimes unpredictably wet patches, but still, generally enjoyable climbing on good rock. The final pitches provide withering exposure and wonderful movement up sustained cracks and chimneys. Ledges are timely and comfortable.
The first ascent climbed the shady rock left of the crest to finish, slightly easier but worthy rock. The shade is generally unappealing.
Start up the chimney/couloir mentioned in "Location", and trend left after a pitch, continuing up the lower half of the buttress (occasional 5.8) following cracks to the laid back central section.
Scramble to the base of the upper arete, then continue upwards, on or a little right of the crest to the the summit. 5.9-5.10, 4 or 5 pitches.


The west face is a complex wall above Baptiste Lake and is separated into two distinct buttresses separated at the bottom by a chimney/couloir. The West Buttress route ascends the left one.


A standard rack with cams to 3" and runners should do the job.