Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 3,666 total · 30/month
Shared By: Said Parirokh on Jun 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Start on two good holds at stomach height with poor feet. Move up on good holds and crimps through tenuous slabby moves to good holds in the seam where the overhang begins. A spicy top out finishes this classic problem over a bad landing.

Location

From the Trailside Boulder cruise up the hill 50 yards. Next to the Intermediate Egg. If you reach the Pacman problem you have gone too far.

Protection

Multiple pads, experienced spotters, and a bold mind.

Photos

Said Parirokh
Redlands, Ca
  V4-5
Said Parirokh   Redlands, Ca
  V4-5
FA and name info on this guy is needed. There is also a nice v0 - v1 on the arete to the left of this problem. Jun 7, 2009
Luke Childers
  V4-5 PG13
Luke Childers  
  V4-5 PG13
Hello Said,
I am not sure if I did the F.A. or if you are talking about climbing straight up the middle of the wave using a sharp/bad left crimp with a quick foot set up and scary toss to the lip!!! If this move is blown and you spotters are not the best serious injury could occur. A great line that is not to be taken lightly. I did the line around 2000 or so after many attempts at working up the nerve to make the final toss to the finish. If you don't find and earlier dated ascent then I guess it would be me. However, I know of two others that were trying the line at the same time I was? I will check with them to see if and when they sent. If we are talking about a different line under the wave because most lines on this wall end up moving left or right. Jun 9, 2009
Luke Childers
  V4-5 PG13
Luke Childers  
  V4-5 PG13
Oh yea,
I think I was calling it "Ground Separation (V7?)" back then. Not sure of the real difficulty? It's a scary climb!! Thanks...


Luke Childers Jun 9, 2009
Said Parirokh
Redlands, Ca
  V4-5
Said Parirokh   Redlands, Ca
  V4-5
Hey Luke,

I'm not sure we're talking about the same line. We started on the jugs. moved right to a good sidepull, then left to a crimp, shuffled the feet up, and gastoned the sharp crimp. We then crossed over to the undercling, and followed that seam right on really good holds to the top and mantled from there. You can see the cross over move in the display picture with dean, and you can see mike working up the seam on good holds. After talking with my friend who sent it, we agree on around v4/v5. I can see how this line would be v7 with out use of that seam, and very proud indeed as the landing is a jumbled bit of rocks. Perhaps there are two lines here. I'll post some more pics to clarify the line we climbed that day.

Thanks,
Said P. Jun 11, 2009
Luke Childers
  V4-5 PG13
Luke Childers  
  V4-5 PG13
Hey Said,
The line I am talking about goes straight up the center of the wave. No left no right exits. Up and out. Still believe that the direct center line is a solid V7. I'm not sure but I think it's still awaiting a repeat. Now that this one is done for me I have no plans to repeat. As I said earlier... if you blow the lip move on the direct line you could get really heart and that would be a best case outcome I think. Great line but it's one of those you only want to do one time...

Luke Childers Jun 16, 2009
Janimal  
Matt Mckee direct beta on Ground Separation... V4-7?
youtu.be/vxyA3vM7hJA Nov 12, 2011
R Sather
COLORADO
  V4 PG13
R Sather   COLORADO
  V4 PG13
Watched above beta video and I climbed it a bit differently and thought it clocked in around V4. I stayed more in the seam, bumping my right hand a hold higher than the video before making a big move to the lip, then moving right along the lip and topping out on some sloping textured holds. I felt like topping out right makes the landing less desirable, is hard to protect with pads, and warranted a PG-13 from me; but the moves are easier than the committing mantel. Curious the difference from the direct variation (beta vid.) to Tsunami; as the lines seem similar in the provided topos. Direct variation looked fun, and I'll have to give it a go next time I'm feeling ready for a full value topout. Regardless, a bold set of committing problems on an awesome rock feature. Mar 31, 2018