Type: Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Mike Layton, 25 May 2009
Page Views: 1,939 total · 13/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in the Mt. Nebo Wilderness. Details

Description

We struggled with the associated elements of an onerous and persistent west wind (Zephyr) while cleaning and equipping this climb. We believe this to be the first bolted rock climb in North Creek Canyon. Founded in Boulder Colorado, Zephyr was also a favorite rock band back a few years. They toured all over the west.

An enjoyable well protected multi-pitch limestone southwest facing bolted climb. Features include thin face, off width, and topping out through an improbable and outstanding sustained and overhanging roof which allows passage via a surprisingly moderate rating.
When approaching, aim for a unique tilting pillar like formation on the first continuous and striking band of limestone on the left canyon walls.

Pitch #1: To the right of a right facing corner of the tilting pillar, climb a hand crack to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 25m, 9 bolts.

Pitch #2: An off width crack continues straight up the right facing corner and then pass some steps to a three-bolt belay ledge. 5.10a, 12m, 5 bolts.

Pitch #3: Interesting face climbing with a dyno move for spice passing a small roof to the left and on to a two-bolt belay ledge next to an odd spike of rock ("The arch-nemesis"). 5.9, 20m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #4: Climb the compact bulgy rock utilizing the spike for convenient foot holds. Continue up the blunt arete to a magnificent flat, though sloping two-bolt belay ledge. 5.7, 17m, 5 bolts.

Pitch #5: The technical and airy pitch of Zephyr sends the exciting roof...stuff those fingers in those lockers to a two-bolt belay ledge. 5.10c, 15m, 6 bolts.

Rappel the route.

Location

Hike up North Creek Canyon as for the winter ice climb Frozen Assets. Find this south west facing route on the opposite side of the canyon on the left. The wide limestone band of rock with Zephyr belongs to Peak 8524. Ascend the scree slope/gully directly below the limestone spur. With a combination of linking the adjacent ridges and scree gullies, the approach (which may seem somewhat arduous) requires at least 30 minutes. On returning to the canyon floor, perhaps only 10 minutes may be required.

An obvious landmark is a huge white topped boulder located in the correct scree gully (numerous exist) about at the half way mark.

Rappel the route.

Protection

All bolts. QDs for 9 bolts. 1 x 50m or 60m rope is sufficient even if linking some pitches.

Photos