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Routes in DXM Wall

44D S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodgie Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dextromethorphan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ghost Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 441 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jonathan Bent on May 25, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Fairly obvious thin crack/seam. Takes small nuts and the occasional cam. Lead is mixed, and encourages you to move to the left half way up the seam to a series of three final bolts. An unbolted lead would command an R or X rating due to marginal gear and unprotectable top half of climb.

Location

Scramble up several boulders for 20-30 yards and belay from beneath large boulder that rests against climbing wall to the right. Start on face holds beneath thin seam/crack.

Protection

Set of small nuts, cams to 0.75 Camalot, draws for up to 5 bolts.

Photos

BAd
  5.8
BAd  
  5.8
I've climbed this a couple of times now and find the given description works well. Once the crack looks like the pro is giving out step over left for the final three bolts. I didn't find the change of line too much of a problem. The thin lower gear is stimulating, however! Small gear always spooks me. Apr 22, 2014
I wish I had read this description before going up to do this climb - re the R or X on gear. The crack is great where it has features and placements but it blanks out repeatedly for gear and the holds disappear - necessitating very reachy, thin and committing moves. The 90 degree edge/corner that sticks out where the crack first blanks out isn't good for liebacking with no feet. I was contemplating a sketchy move on a blue alien in a shallow placement when I saw the 2nd bolt out to my left - about 6? feet from the crack. Leading with gear and the bolts might be okay with twin ropes. The bolts are quite spacious so I wandered back to the crack several times for backup gear. Long runners on either the bolts or the gear are essential to keep things in line if you use both(I used 4 footers). After bolt 3 I just ran it out to bolt 4. The features on the bolt line are nice but then you don't get the benefit of the crack. I felt like there were two distinct lines here - either the bolts or the crack - but the combo didn't work well. I'd like to do this one again. May 28, 2013