Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,446 total · 54/month
Shared By: Andrew R on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Kraft Boulders parking Details
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Highly aesthetic and (like all dynos) height dependent. Climb dwindling edges to a toss for a left facing hold. Hang on to it and top out casually. Good stuff. Also known as the John Long Dyno?

Location

Dead center on the obvious, gently overhanging face of the boulder.

Protection

Homies and foam

Photos

John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
On the first ascent of this thing Randy Grandstaff told me it already went, so I chucked up off the initial holds and stuck the good one up high, then pulled off a huge loose block and almost pitched. It was impossible for the problem to have been climbed before and Randy said he was just funning me and I almost went after him for sandbagging me like that. We never had pads or spotters back then and I remember this was a rush to do because even though it's not too hard (I probably did it 50 times and never fell) you have to go for it pretty hard to get the boost, and you're flying out pretty far and as a consequence I saw some truly spectacular cartwheel rippers. Jul 19, 2011
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Kevin Ran
Brooklyn, NY
  V6-7 PG13
Kevin Ran   Brooklyn, NY
  V6-7 PG13
If you're shorter and have to use the crimp past the second jug/ledge like I do: do not underestimate the crimp. My fingers are fairly small and I still could only reliably pull on it with just my pointer & thumb. Sep 13, 2018
Owen Donnelly
Seattle, WA
  V7
Owen Donnelly   Seattle, WA
  V7
The jug just to the right of the hold you dyno to seems to be loose, made some noise when I grabbed it. Not sure how long it’s been like that. Dec 17, 2018 · Temporary Report
Owen Lynch
Monterey, CA
  V7 PG13
Owen Lynch   Monterey, CA
  V7 PG13
Bring lots of pads and be prepared to jump a lot :p Dec 20, 2018