Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 642 total · 4/month
Shared By: David Hertel on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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It's a nice, little V1+ problem. It is only a 3 move, low ball problem, but it's good for beginners to learn the basics of crimps and crystals.
It starts out with obvious footing on the right, but the rest of the climb is generally smeary. Your hands start out with a small crystal in the middle of a slope on the right hand side. I found that it was easier to wrap my thumb around it and cup the slope. On the left, you have a gnarly crimp angled slightly to the left. After that, you just stick to the arete and do what you have to do using the various crimps and crystals along the way.


If you park in the Bar Trail parking lot, you need to walk down the hill to the cog railway. You are going to want to head right up the road. The reason being, there is no parking except for residence. Once you reach the gate, you take the high road. Directly across from the giant boulder to the left, there is a little "trail" that cuts through the scrub oaks on the right hand side. You need to watch carefully for it, because the vegetation hides it pretty well. It takes you in about 20 yards or so, and "Arretion" is the first one on the left.


It is a low ball, so there really is no need for a crash pad, but there is a tree branch blocking a good portion of the landing zone. I would recommend having a buddy kinda pull it out of the way and spot you if you are a new climber. To the more experienced climbers I say, "don't fall"