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Routes in Ten Pins Area

Baja V2 5+
Beach, The V4 6B
Behind the Tree V2 5+
Brass Monkey V7 7A+
Breaktime V0- 4-
Cheese V4 6B
Chins V0- 4-
Copa Cabana V2-3 5+
Crotch Cramps V8 7B
Drop, The V0 4
Fat Woman V4 6B
Flake Left V0 4
Flexing Flake V2 5+
Hive V1 5
Honey 1 V2 5+
Honey 2 V0- 4-
Honey 3 V0- 4-
Honeycomb V3 6A
Hugs and Kisses V8 7B
JJ V7 7A+
Ketchup V1 5
Las Americas V2 5+
Left of Pine V1 5
Louis Groove V4 6B
Mariachi V4 6B
Picante V4 6B
Pocket Pool V0 4
Popeye V5 6C
Private Moment V2 5+
Rail, The V-easy 3
Reprise V2 5+
Sandbox V2 5+
Silky V0 4
Slice V2 5+
Sometimes V3 6A
Spur of the Moment V2 5+
Stare V0- 4-
Sunbeam V3 6A
Thugs and Bitches V8 7B
Tree Dab V1 5
Upward Gardening V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,085 total, 10/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

For many, this is as hard as V2 gets. It's all in the topout on this oft-tried problem. It seems that everyone has their own trick beta, which invariably doesn't work. I saw a guy send Ghetto Superstar (V9), then walk over to the crowd around Sandbox, step in, and fail. Repeatedly. You must know how to mantle to be successful.

Start standing with a right hand in a nice sidepull pocket and left on a decent crimp. Reach way up and left for a juggy pocket, then up right for another pocket. From here, rock the topout using whatever foolish beta you've been able to contrive. Try again.

Note: The protective outer sandstone layer has worn off the front of the problem, leaving an exposed area of what is essentially compacted sand. This sand flakes off in copious quantities (hence the name) when climbers try desperately to push themselves onto the boulder's top. This means that over the years, footholds have been created and subsequently disappeared. The problem is constantly changing, which is part of what makes it so classic.

Location

In the 'Ten Pin' area. Locate the small, beautifully-colored boulder in the middle of the area. Downclimb the back, if you manage to make it up at all.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Nick D'Hulster
California
Nick D'Hulster   California
I love this problem! A true test in mantle technique- which is why for me this was not as bad as people claimed. 3 dudes just staired at it talking about how much they hate it and it's "the worst problem in the south." You don't really need rubber for this thing though as the rock just disappears before you can even put force on your toes. A must do to test the "shit quality" of a classic. Trust the dishes and belly flop if necessary Jun 28, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Hard for v2 but super fun! Why the guidebook called this the worst problem in the Deep South I'll never know... Aug 21, 2016
Cesar Valencia  
  V2+
HARDEST V2 I have ever done. One of my proudest sends at HP40 for sure. Jan 22, 2012