Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,343 total · 11/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

For many, this is as hard as V2 gets. It's all in the topout on this oft-tried problem. It seems that everyone has their own trick beta, which invariably doesn't work. I saw a guy send Ghetto Superstar (V9), then walk over to the crowd around Sandbox, step in, and fail. Repeatedly. You must know how to mantle to be successful.

Start standing with a right hand in a nice sidepull pocket and left on a decent crimp. Reach way up and left for a juggy pocket, then up right for another pocket. From here, rock the topout using whatever foolish beta you've been able to contrive. Try again.

Note: The protective outer sandstone layer has worn off the front of the problem, leaving an exposed area of what is essentially compacted sand. This sand flakes off in copious quantities (hence the name) when climbers try desperately to push themselves onto the boulder's top. This means that over the years, footholds have been created and subsequently disappeared. The problem is constantly changing, which is part of what makes it so classic.

Location

In the 'Ten Pin' area. Locate the small, beautifully-colored boulder in the middle of the area. Downclimb the back, if you manage to make it up at all.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Cesar Valencia  
  V2+
HARDEST V2 I have ever done. One of my proudest sends at HP40 for sure. Jan 22, 2012
Graham O.  
 
Hard for v2 but super fun! Why the guidebook called this the worst problem in the Deep South I'll never know... Aug 21, 2016
Nick D'Hulster
California
  V2
Nick D'Hulster   California
  V2
I love this problem! A true test in mantle technique- which is why for me this was not as bad as people claimed. 3 dudes just staired at it talking about how much they hate it and it's "the worst problem in the south." You don't really need rubber for this thing though as the rock just disappears before you can even put force on your toes. A must do to test the "shit quality" of a classic. Trust the dishes and belly flop if necessary Jun 28, 2017
CrimpDaddy-WesP
Bowling green Kentuckee
 
CrimpDaddy-WesP   Bowling green Kentuckee
 
It was hard but it wasn't nearly as hard as some of the other top outs in HP. Not sure what the fuss is! If it wasnt so sandy it would be a really great problem. In my opinion still is. Oct 29, 2018