Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,991 total · 18/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

50 Opinions

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For many, this is as hard as V2 gets. It's all in the topout on this oft-tried problem. It seems that everyone has their own trick beta, which invariably doesn't work. I saw a guy send Ghetto Superstar (V9), then walk over to the crowd around Sandbox, step in, and fail. Repeatedly. You must know how to mantle to be successful.

Start standing with a right hand in a nice sidepull pocket and left on a decent crimp. Reach way up and left for a juggy pocket, then up right for another pocket. From here, rock the topout using whatever foolish beta you've been able to contrive. Try again.

Note: The protective outer sandstone layer has worn off the front of the problem, leaving an exposed area of what is essentially compacted sand. This sand flakes off in copious quantities (hence the name) when climbers try desperately to push themselves onto the boulder's top. This means that over the years, footholds have been created and subsequently disappeared. The problem is constantly changing, which is part of what makes it so classic.


In the 'Ten Pin' area. Locate the small, beautifully-colored boulder in the middle of the area. Downclimb the back, if you manage to make it up at all.