Adam Berger   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Fun route, very dirty but will clean up with traffic. There is a run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt as well. If you take the easy way to the right it's not bad, but if you stick to the arete then be careful because a fall could land you on the ground. This section will take gear, probably a #1 C4 or smaller. Oct 17, 2008

HTP Longmont, CO

[Hide Comment] I agree -- a little dirty, especially if you wander right (which I did several times), but based on how many climbers followed me Sunday, I'd say the loose dirt and lichen won't last long. There are two short runouts through easier sections: between bolts 2 and 3, and between the last bolt and the anchors. But it's very doable. Oct 22, 2008

Julius Beres Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I did this today and thought it was more challenging than the 5.9 Made in the Shade because of the loose rock, but that should go away eventually. I did it without any gear, but I would consider bringing a #1-#2 cam for the long run out on easy ground between the last bolt and the anchor. If you made it that far, you probably won't fall, but it is a long way to the top from the last bolt. Oct 25, 2008

ZachS00 Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Just on this today. About midway up I pulled on a jug sidepull that completely tore off, almost hitting my belayer. Beware of loose holds on the right side of the climb. Also, it blew my 5.8 onsight, which I track on 8a.nu. Oct 31, 2008

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder   5.8+

[Hide Comment] When we, the FA party, envisioned this route and bolted it, the line we climbed went straight up past the first two bolts then worked over to the arete on the left and climbed straight up that past three bolts then up the headwall above past three more bolts to the anchor. We spent two days cleaning the loose rock and lichen, bushes, etc. from this line. There is a gully to the right of the arete which contains some loose rock, bushes, etc. which is off the climbing line we bolted. Obviously, we can't dictate where people climb, but if you want to climb on rock which is most likely cleaner, then follow the line of the bolts. Bruce Oct 31, 2008

Margo   5.8

[Hide Comment] Fun route...took a bunch of new climber friends up there this last weekend...still a very dirty route and we had some good-sized rocks come off while we were climbing...but some people did go far off route and into the gully. Beginning is a little bouldery but good moves! May 7, 2009

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Today, my partner Dale and I, the original FA party, added a bolt on the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are now nine (9) bolts on the route. We also did a bunch of cleaning in the gully to the right of the climbing line. Oct 6, 2009

Darren Buford   5.8-

[Hide Comment] Really fun lead. Getting to the first bolt is a bit iffy (have a spotter) and that last 20 feet between bolts is a bit terrifying for a new leader (didn't have this beta until I was looking down the barrel of the gun). Resist the temptation to move too far right of the bolts, or that last clip is gonna be an eye-opener, requiring a small traverse left of crimps. Jun 3, 2010

Ben Burnett NM   5.8+

[Hide Comment] The line is good if you stay on the arete, bad if you move into the gully. Jun 12, 2010

Michael Kopinsky

[Hide Comment] For some reason, this route is killer on the legs. I think it's because all the "resting" stances keep your legs at some kind of angle that strains the muscles. The secret is to keep moving - the longer you stand resting, the more it'll hurt. Aug 20, 2010

pat thompson superior

[Hide Comment] FYI: there are wasps in the small crack 12 inches below the 3rd bolt. Can easily skip third bolt by climbing right and clipping 4th bolt. Cheers!!! Aug 10, 2011

J P Denver, CO 5.8 R

[Hide Comment] Definite runout between the last bolt and the anchors. Easy climbing from there, but slips happen, rock gives way, and it's going to be an ugly whipper. Aug 30, 2011

Robert Buswold Northglenn, CO

[Hide Comment] This was a fun route, but it felt harder than its 5.9 neighbor down the way, "Made in the Shade." Anyone else agree? Sep 6, 2011

Furthermore 5.8-

[Hide Comment] There is a missing hanger on the 5th-6th bolt (I don't remember which one at the moment). Be prepared for a long mid section run-out. Without that hanger on the bolt, the climb is now PG-13. Jun 14, 2012

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Replaced the missing hanger and bolt on this route today. As a bit of history this particular bolt, the sixth on the route, was a spinner and a climber felt it was safer to remove the nut, washer and hanger rather than to hand tighten the nut. Personally, I would disagree with this decision. It seems to me to be safer to hand tighten the nut and then either come back with the appropriate wrench to properly tighten it or tell someone who is more qualified about the problem so they can properly tighten it. To avoid further problems, I added 3/8" SS lock washers to all the bolts. Also, I removed the chains and added Mussy Hooks to the quicklinks. Those not familiar with how to use Mussy Hooks at an anchor should obtain proper information. As a quick summary, these are beefy steel hooks, and while it is poor form to belay and lower through chains or rings, it is advised to belay and lower through Mussy Hooks. Those not comfortable with this setup have the option of clipping draws through the quicklinks or the hooks themselves. Thanks to Ron Olsen for donating the hooks. Thanks to the Lord of the Canal, Kirk Miller, for retrieving the hanger, washer, and nut which were taken off the 6th bolt. Happy and safe climbing! Jun 17, 2012

NickMartel Tucson, Arizona   5.8+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Bruce: I have put up a few routes on Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, AZ and was given a bunch of the EXACT same hooks (china stamp etc...). I really liked them and how easy they were to use until one of the gates got DESTROYED by just pulling a rope (that was a bit twisted) through it, I still have that one it if you want to see it, but regardless I no longer endorse them. Food for thought.... Just my $0.02.... Thanks anyways, it is the thought that counts. Apr 1, 2013

NickMartel Tucson, Arizona   5.8+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Regarding the route. The crux is getting to the 1st bolt, but solid throughout. Good hand but tricky feet. Spot your climber till they get the 1st bolt clipped. Apr 1, 2013

Jeremy C Denver, CO   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Try very hard not to fall while gaining the anchors. It's probably only 5.6 thorough this last 20ft but would generate a pretty long fall. The rest of the route is fairly sustained and drifts sideways in a couple of cool spots. Oct 14, 2013

Jason Platt Colorado Springs, CO

[Hide Comment] The route is awesome! Getting off the ground is pretty difficult, but the landing is good, so it's not that big of a deal. Once you are above the first clip, the climb is really sweet. It's a bit easier if you stay right, but the arete is also really cool. The runout at the top is no big deal, since the climbing is very easy. If you can climb to the runout, there is pretty much no way you would manage to fall on the last few moves. It also stays shady until 1ish even in the summer, which is a plus. May 28, 2014

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Dale Haas and I did some minor route maintenance today. We replaced the worn Mussy Hooks. We made sure all the bolts were tight. Lastly, I trundled the block with the white X on it about 3/4 of the way up the climb to the right. It is now a cheat stone to keep your shoes clean while you try and get established on the footholds at the start. Sep 30, 2015

Brett Wagner Golden, CO   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Fun route, goofy start. Clean your shoes first. Jun 3, 2016

Chris Ham   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Fun, lengthy route. The plethora of holds seemed to be a bit tricky for the newer people with me, so there are better 5.8s in the area for new leaders. Really fun, exposed crux move near the top. I didn't feel the cam was necessary during the run out, but it could be helpful for the nervous leaders. Nov 6, 2017

t d colorado

[Hide Comment] Started with dirty shoes from the muddy ground and could not make the first bolt, cleaned the shoes and followed on TR. Fine climb for my beginning skills. Climbed 11/3/17. Nov 17, 2017

A J Washington, DC   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Really nice, well bolted route. Comments on this page are accurate IMO. This route is more fun (and no more difficult) if you stay left. May 16, 2019

Cara Hubbell Arvada, CO   5.9

[Hide Comment] The start is hard and scary for the more cautious leaders, but stickclipping it offers peace of mind :) I really feel this whole route is challenging with thin, slopy feet at times and the mega runout at the top. I would definitely say this will test your confidence if you are a 5.8 leader. Jun 7, 2019

Nate Oakes   5.8

[Hide Comment] Agreed with the rest of the commenters that getting past the first bolt is spicy for the grade. The 5.6 top section has cleaned up quite a bit. Sep 23, 2019

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder   5.8+

[Hide Comment] A little beta for the start: line up under the leftmost holds, and don't use the big chalked up hold on the right. If you do the starting move like this, you end up placing your right foot over onto the sloping hold from the left and it is easier to stand up and reach good holds higher up left to stay in balance. That's how we did it on the FA. Coming in from the right, where all the bigger holds appear to be, puts you way off balance, especially when trying to stand up on the right foot sloper. Sep 23, 2019

Nick Lowary Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Did it with a 50m rope, had about a foot left over. Nice and easy run out at the top. Clean those shoes. May 27, 2020

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder   5.8+

[Hide Comment] After consulting with the FA party and obtaining their consent, Erika Nelson-Wong and her husband Jim added a bolt to the last 20 feet of this climb. Now there are now 10 bolts total. Thank you, Erika and Jim. Oct 3, 2022

WF WF51

[Hide Comment] I've done the start on the left and right: both seemed the same. May 23, 2023

Dustin V   5.7

[Hide Comment] As of 6/14/2023, the Mussy hooks seem to have gotten pretty sharp. You might want to rappel instead of lowering. Jun 14, 2023