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Routes in Delancey Rock

Bearish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bullish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Delancey Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Skyscraper S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wall Street S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, October 2006
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

On the far right end of Delancey Rock, use a lieback flake to reach a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up and left on nice plates. Although this line is bolted it could just as well be led on gear. The roof is not as intimidating as it may look and my friends and I all thought the route went at 5.8. I think it has cleaned up a bit in the lower section, making the climb easier than on the first ascent.

As a variation, you can start on the same flake at the bottom, but follow the crack up to the anchor. This is a very nice finger to hand crack that goes at about 5.8+ if you avoid using the block that leans into the main wall. For this variation, take gear from thin to 2" Rappel to descend.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Fun moves down low in the corner and over the roof but the last couple of bolts make the climb feel forced and don't really add much to the overall quality. Jul 23, 2010
much fun Aug 2, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Finally led this one. The 5.10a guide book rating is indeed generous. One or two moves and they aren't very hard. Great climb nonetheless. Jul 28, 2009