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Meltdown

5.12c, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 27 votes
FA: Ed Strang
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > Dungeon > Main Wall

Description

Starts on easy jugs, and gets progressively harder as you get higher. Pull a few moves off some small crimps and setup for the final desperate crux at the anchors.

Location

First route on the left side of the Mainwall. On the small pillar just left of the chimney. Between Phrenology and Battering Ram.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jenna Lupia cruising through the bottom of the route.
[Hide Photo] Jenna Lupia cruising through the bottom of the route.
Jenna Lupia low on the route
[Hide Photo] Jenna Lupia low on the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave Wachter
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Short but sustained. Bouldery crux at the top will test your crimp and core reserves. Maybe with lots of power endurance and perfect beta this could go at 12b... why can't we all just be sick-strong like Mike and crush our way through on-sight and say, "that wasn't too bad, now was it?" "12-!" Great route, though, for sure, whatever the grade! May 14, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Hey Dave, after an extensive alcohol fueled debate about my proposed downgrades on Mountain Project, I realized that this is one I wasn't sure of. So I've updated the rating to reflect the consensus and probably more accurate grade of 12c. I still think that Rogue Warrior might be harder than this.

Now about the Demon... I'm staying solid on that one. Mar 15, 2010
Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] FA: Ed Strang Sep 2, 2010
Ryan Salazar
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Cool rose move clip before the desperate crux. Possible kneebar through the crux can help you send, use a kneepad and you too could possibly think it is 12b. If you can't reach the far RH crimp from the LH sloper, opt to come into a pretty decent LH pinch (desperate because you have to crush that RH sidepull). This route has more character than Tendin Bendin with a much more well defined crux. Knowing the beta and the holds for sure refines your efficiency, a crux for me was not being able to chalk up after the second bolt. The rest that George refers to did not help me only wasted energy, had to keep moving. Jul 3, 2019