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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Walt Wehner and Luke Laeser
Page Views: 103 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Begin on the left side of the main wall and ascend the overhanging edge/arete using a combination of face holds and crack climbing techniques. Continue up to a slightly positive face beneath a large roof; traverse to the right to the roof's edge. Although this traverse is not particularly difficult, falling at this point could result in a nasty pendulum to the adjacent wall; exercise caution. At the lip of the roof, clip the last bolt on Evil Alchemist and continue up the face to the chains below the main roof.

Location

Leftmost edge of the main wall, to the right of Meltdown.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
This climb seemed substantially easier than the 11c rating given for it in the guidebooks (I used the crack), and I felt the bolt spacing was not something to get worried about. Jun 27, 2009
This route started as something that Walt and I were climbing on before I bolted the Evil Alchemist. It was super chossy, so we relocated it into the crack, where you can get a couple nice hand jams before pulling on the slab. it's actually pretty fun if you like hand jams.

We named this route "Evil Elliot" after Elliot Bloch who was taking massive whips off this one while learning to sport climb at the time [he later became a total badass]. Jul 24, 2008