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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Luke Laeser and Walt Wehner
Page Views: 680 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

You probably didn't come to the Dungeon to climb slabs but this chossy dirty climb might be worth doing once.

Start up the slab left of Meltdown, being careful not to pull anything off or peel off from the lichen on the easy bottom section. At the 4th bolt there is a nice ledge to rest on, to get ready for the crux.

Pull the crux moves, being aware of the ankle breaking fall potential back onto the ledge, and head up more sustained ground to the 6th bolt. Here grab the crack and make the funnest easiest moves to the anchor.

Location

Far left side of the Main wall. Turn the corner past Meltdown, and hike 10 feet up the loose hill.

Protection

6 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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I bolted this one with Walt Wehner. You will enjoy the angle stock homemade hangers that Jon Butler, Mike Lyons, Jason Cox and I made in high school. Sorry I was too cheap to put real gear on this one.... It required lots of cleaning but I seem to remember it was a pretty fun route. Jul 24, 2008
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Not sure what Luke and I were thinking with this one. It is, however, not our worst route - that honor goes to Texas Whine, at El Rito, which has the same crappy homemade hangers, plus crater potential from everywhere on the route, thanks to the huge slab behind it. Jan 1, 2009

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