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Routes in (05) The Open Face Wall

Learning to Lead Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Opie Ate for the Masses S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rueben S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sideshow Rodeo S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tuna Melt S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: EB Scott Halliday, FA: Anthony Stout (2007)
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 19, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start up steep rock of dubious quality (stickclip recommended) to the first bolt. Traverse left and up slightly passing the second bolt with a cool move. Passing the third bolt the crux is encountered a big dyno between good holds. Clip the 4th bolt and an easier crux is encountered a deadpoint to a mantle on sandy sloper holds. From here a nice rest is encountered than the next challenge is finding the achors, pull over the final lip and clip the anchors on top of the cliff.

With some trickery the big dyno can be avoided which may drop the grade a bit.

This route is incorrectly called "Heave Ho" in the rock climbing New Mexico guide.

Location

At the far right side of the Open Face Wall. Look for what is probably the steepest climb at Mentmore. The is tough to spot from the road as it faces parallel to the road.

Route is marked as #17 "Project" on the topo at the New Side intro page.

Protection

4 Bolts to unusually placed anchors. Plan on walking up to retrieve your draws at the end of the day. Stickclip

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