Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in Stone Hills - NW of bridge
|Flame S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 180 ft|
|FA:||Greg Allen, 1996|
|Page Views:||467 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||gregybn on May 10, 2008|
DescriptionThis is the longest, most direct route on the cliff formations NW of the Kookanusa bridge. Although it is a long single pitch (55m.) I set it up with a mid-station rap point. This allows the choice of two raps from the top (with a single rope)... and it allows a two pitch climb with a nice bolted station at a small ledge. As there are very few two-pitch climbs at Stone Hills, it's nice to use as "practice" for multi-pitch climbing.
Although one of the guide books attributes the first ascent to another climber... don't believe it. The nature of the cliff surrounding Flame has huge variety in route selection. One or two other climbers may have half-heartedly attempted death-defying trad routes in and around that area...
But Flame was prepped solely by myself, with a great amount of scrubbing, cleaning and drilling, in 1996... and I can say with great confidence, no one climbed it before me.
I chose the route very carefully and I believe it is the best climb on that whole section NW of the bridge (maybe one of the best climbs in the whole Stone Hills area)
As I haven't climbed there since 1997, I really hope there has been more route development in the last 10 years?
Going from memory... I think the crux (very thin face) was on the first pitch? The second pitch is steep and sustained, with great exposure and a great view.
The whole route is basically thin face climbing - with a few small finger cracks and pockets for variety.
LocationLooking from the highway on the east side of the lake - Flame is an obvious light colored narrow band with dark lichen on either side - on the biggest cliff face visible.
You'll really need a recent guide book to help you with specific directions...
Good luck, it's really worth it leave the crowds at HUB and head over there sometime.
ProtectionFlame is mostly a sport route, can't remember the number of bolts... but I think I left a few gear placements to play with on the first pitch?
Check the recent guide book to determine if a small rack is needed - if so, it will be nuts/cams under 1" (????)
There is a two bolt station with chains, half way up (or down).
It can be climbed as a l o n g single pitch, but needs at least a 55-60m rope.
Two bolts at top edge... with a third, set back for belaying.
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