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Crackhouse | 4004
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 10
votes
Routes in Crackhouse
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Baby House V2+ 5+ |
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Birth Canal, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4 6B |
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Crackhouse | 4004 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crackhouse, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V8 7B |
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Fat Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5 6C |
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Fat Crack to Birth Canal T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5-6 6C+ |
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Outside Traverse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B |
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Yuji's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V6-7 7A+ |
| Type: | , 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 38.58924, -109.69932 |
| FA: | Tait Rees |
| Page Views: | 7,218 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Shanti on Apr 17, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The Crack Whore is a 25-30 foot off-width roof bouldering problem. Start as far back in the cave as possible and climb out to the lip. A variation "The Crack Head" (11+) is to climb through the squeeze chimmney in the middle avoiding the crux (turning the lip).
Location
Take 191 North from Moab. Turn left on highway 313. Drive approximately 10 miles and turn left onto the Gemini Bridges road.
Follow the signs to Gemini Bridges. The Crack Whore is approximately 5.8 miles from the Gemini Bridges road turn-off about a mile before the Crack House.
From the turn-off onto Gemini Bridges Road:
After 4 miles go right at the Gemini Bridges Sign
After 4.7 miles stay left at "Y" following the Gemini Bridges sign
After 5.6 Miles stay left at the "Y"
After 5.8 Miles stay left
Park anywhere you can off the road
There will be a large drainage on the right side
Hike down the drainage to the Rim
The Crack Whore is the on the right
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