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Routes in Borson's Wall

Auto Pilot TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Big Rock Boys Mantle V5 6C
Black Pinch V1+ 5
Borson's Leftside V1 5
Borson's Lieback V-easy 3
Borson's Mantel V4- 6B
Ex, The V4 6B
Masterlock V3- 6A
Problem A V-easy 3
Problem B V-easy 3
Problem C V0- 4-
Type: TR, 20 ft
FA: some Stonemaster(s)
Page Views: 1,317 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Auto Pilot boulder is located to the right of Borson's Wall about 20 feet above the road. "Auto Pilot" ascends through a steep bulge and into a shallow corner. It probably has some of the coolest moves of any Rubidoux problem, and is one of just a handful of the classics here that have nary a micro-crimp on them (unusual for Rubidoux). Although described as an .11b toprope in the Craig Fry guide, the rating is a sandbag. This could be looked at in modern-day crashpad terms as a highball V4. It is routinely bouldered by at least a few people. If you're under 6' tall, the crux move is probably much harder than V4. Be sure to have spotters prevent you from falling down to the road.

Protection

toprope (2" cams) or crashpads, spotters and "cajones"

Photos

Eric Odenthal
  5.12a R
Eric Odenthal  
  5.12a R
spicy! bring a few pads and fresh skin. A stout layback starts this problem. go up with big moves. Under 6' would be burly. huge reach. the top out makes you pause. sick! Jan 24, 2010