Zipper

Climb up easy broken 5th class to the back of the roof and crack. Climb the roof crack via layback and jams. The feet are under you for the first couple of 5.10 moves then its time to wrench your feet into the roof. Finish through a v notch at the lip of the roof. The crack goes from thin hands to rattly hands to desperate fingers.

Dead center of the boulder/cliff, look up. Hard to miss.

.5" to 2" cams. I'd stay away from the passive stuff, didn't you hear how the Zipper got it's name?? Two stout trees to top rope from, bring two long pieces of webbing (30 to 35'), padding for two trees and I padded the lip for the slings due to sharp edges. WARNING!!! if you fall on the easy 5th class you can ground fall. Once you engage the crack you are fine but be aware. Have you belayer anchored down for TR.(Also, if you think you are going to fall before the crack, don't bother going on.)