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Routes in Pillar of Hope

Brewser S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dismembered S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise and Devour S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under The Hammer S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 842 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Dec 7, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Located on the south face of the pillar, start in a small corridor on good holds to the first bolt. Although not technically difficult for the grade, Brewser requires some thinking as the sequence is critical and not obvious. Higher up, the climb is more slab than edges. All in all, a good climb that never eases up too much. Rappel to descend.

Location

On the south face, around and left from Rise and Devour.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchor

Photos

BAd
  5.8
BAd  
  5.8
What Locker said. Easy for the grade, so probably a nice, solid 8. Super fun and a must do. Mar 17, 2013
Chris Asencio
Hesperia, CA
 
Chris Asencio   Hesperia, CA
 
Short but sweet. Plenty of good holds, but about the third bolt some larger holds seem to be coming loose. Sep 13, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
I agree - the top is a little balancy and tougher than the bottom portion. Apr 27, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Delicate high steps on large hollow flakes at the start transition to patina plates and then higher easy slab which steepens to finish with a committing feeling step-up move to the anchors. If you're tall enough you can clip the anchors from a good stance, if not you have to make one more move which feels off-balance. Jan 11, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I'd say it's at least an .8 but the guide gives it a .9 so there you go. Mar 11, 2008
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
IMHO, 5.9 is pushing it, more like 5.7. Put a "+" on it, if it makes you feel better. Feb 23, 2008