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Routes in Dem Bones Buttress

Dem Bones T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lazy Bones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Los Huesos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 9/2/07
Page Views: 1,226 total · 10/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description [Edit]

This route offers excellent stone similar to Dem Bones, but with less sustained hard climbing.
P1-Climb the thin crack splitting this clean face making use of abundant faceholds. When the crack turns burly about 50' up, make a cruxy (and rather spicy) traverse left to a blunt arete which is delicately climbed to a small ledge (alternative belay possible here). Crank up some short cracks into a cool stembox/chimney with a perfect finger crack in the back. Use all 70m to reach a spacious belay ledge. A stellar pitch! 5.10b, 225'
P2-Face climb up a slab to the right of a vegetated crack into a nice right-facing dihedral and up to the huge midway ledge which bisects the entire buttress. 5.8, 100'
P3-Ramble up the obvious large, right-facing corner with a hand-fistcrack to the end of the rope on small ledges. 5.6, 225'
P4-A moderate crack up nice white rock to the ledges beneath the final headwall of brown rock (with the crux handcrack on Dem Bones). 5.4, 70'
P5-Climb the splintered arete which forms the left margin of the Dem Bones headwall. Disjointed cracks and one tough bulge. There are a couple loose blocks to be wary of. 5.10a, 80'

Location [Edit]

Begins about 100' left of Dem Bones (see route description here or in Climbers Guide to the Teton Range) on a clean, well-featured face split by a thin crack. This face is sandwiched between two dihedral systems.

Protection [Edit]

Single set of stoppers suffices, although double medium sizes are nice. Double set of cams through #1 Camalot, singles of #2 and #3 Camalot. 70M rope very handy, though not necessary.

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