Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 9/2/07|
|Page Views:||1,194 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Trevor Bowman on Nov 29, 2007|
DescriptionThis route offers excellent stone similar to Dem Bones, but with less sustained hard climbing.
P1-Climb the thin crack splitting this clean face making use of abundant faceholds. When the crack turns burly about 50' up, make a cruxy (and rather spicy) traverse left to a blunt arete which is delicately climbed to a small ledge (alternative belay possible here). Crank up some short cracks into a cool stembox/chimney with a perfect finger crack in the back. Use all 70m to reach a spacious belay ledge. A stellar pitch! 5.10b, 225'
P2-Face climb up a slab to the right of a vegetated crack into a nice right-facing dihedral and up to the huge midway ledge which bisects the entire buttress. 5.8, 100'
P3-Ramble up the obvious large, right-facing corner with a hand-fistcrack to the end of the rope on small ledges. 5.6, 225'
P4-A moderate crack up nice white rock to the ledges beneath the final headwall of brown rock (with the crux handcrack on Dem Bones). 5.4, 70'
P5-Climb the splintered arete which forms the left margin of the Dem Bones headwall. Disjointed cracks and one tough bulge. There are a couple loose blocks to be wary of. 5.10a, 80'