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Routes in Desert Skies/Morning Dove Area

Type: Boulder
FA: Mick Ryan
Page Views: 4,507 total · 35/month
Shared By: AWinters on Nov 1, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Pockets. Start on the lowest pockets just right of the vertical seam. Traverse left on pockets, then up to a hard move to and from a bad crimp, and continue up to the horizontal crack and easier ground.

Location [Edit]

The obvious, overhanging pockety face. Look for the thin horizontal crack about 10 feet off the ground. Just up-canyon from My Heart Grew Wings...

Protection [Edit]

Pads

Photos

C Miller   CA  
Morning Dove White on Youtube -

youtube.com/watch?v=wGrXwtJ… Dec 1, 2009
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
cbtacy
  V8-
cbtacy  
  V8-
Grade and quality score are for the original line - not the new version using the high chipped edge and traversing in.

Super fun, great movement, tall but easy finish. V7 if you're tall, V8 if you're short.

And whoever chipped that hold up there.... You're a sad person. Aug 11, 2013
Shit, that was my beta. Didn't know it was chipped, now to rework the start. Just out of curiosity, which hold is chipped, the far right high one? Because if it's the middle - just about everyone uses that one for a heel... Nov 10, 2013
Chris Humphries   AZ
 
Not to stir things up, but is it possible that hold occurred from natural breakage, freeze/thaw, etc??? It would not be the first Bishop climb to change over time (Mandala, Rave, Everything at the Sads), or have a hold "discovered" (Saigon). Just wondering as I've been trying this climb for a few years and have always used the high beta. Nov 12, 2014
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  V8
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  V8
Always seemed like V8 to me but I did it before the chipped hold appeared. And it did just appear one day as the obvious result of very aggressive "cleaning." It's the high edge above pockets, what some people are describing here as the "crux crimp." Lol. It's just not the same problem with that hold because the drop knee or deep flag one gets without it is a thing of beauty. Mar 4, 2015

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