Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: Darrell Hensel
Page Views: 1,584 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brad G on Sep 25, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A popular introduction to Aid climbing. This climb can also go free at 5.12a.

Head up the bolt ladder that goes up the center of the really smooth dark slab. After about 25 feet the rock starts to overhang. From this point climb the fingertip crack up and to the left (no foot holds here). Pull through the overhang and on to a hard boulder problem finish to the top.

Location

The route is located to the left of the Jam crack.

Protection

Quick draws and small cams, bolted anchor

Photos

Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
There are actually several practice aid climbs in the vicinity, but this one is probably the best (and hardest) because it isn't all fixed gear. If new to aid climbing, or if unwilling to risk one's life aiding a thirty-foot route on manky gear that is way old, you might consider rigging a toprope back-up when practicing on these climbs. Mar 16, 2008
The free rating is 12a, not 12+ as mentioned in the description. The bottom bolt ladder can be done free by doing a few moves on the flake just left of it, then traversing right to obtain the good holds at the base of the lieback. No aid required. FFA: Darrell Hensel. Feb 8, 2012
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Fun C1 climb to learn and practice aid. Easily done with a few cams down to #0 Metolius. Bolts are in decent shape. Feb 8, 2016
Jared Nunez
Arcata, CA
Jared Nunez   Arcata, CA
anyone know the gear needed to free this? Jun 24, 2017