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|Shared By:||Shawn P. Tracy on Sep 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE|
As of now, Canidae Cliff is officially closed for climbing.
DescriptionYou have several options to start this excellent route. 1) The line of first ascent takes a direct line below the first bolt on a right-hand crimp and a left hand thumb gaston. This leads up to side by side layback crimps and then straight up through tenuous moves up to ledge and first bolt (11b). 2) Var. 1: Start on Route C then traverse over to the first bolt (10a/b). 3) Var.2: Start on the Alternate Start to Lupus as described by its separate listing (as its significantly differnet and harder than these two starts). In all three cases, it may be advisable to either stick clip the first bolt or bring a pad and good spotter.
Once at the first bolt, climb up and right to second bolt and over block to a stance below the face. For full value, stick to the moves on the face and eliminate the flake on your right. Climb to a point below the overhang where you get a nice jug for your left hand in the crack to clip from (bolt not visible until you get the hold and lean out). Climb jugs and final crimps on face directly below and right of anchors. DO NOT GET SUCKERED INTO THE MUNGY, ROTTEN CORNER AT YOUR LEFT--FINISH EITHER DIRECTLY THROUGH THE ANCHOR OR SLIGHTLY TO ITS RIGHT!