[Hide Comment] We did the fast and light approach. Our rack was two OP link cams (used only 1 once), a set of nuts, a bunch of slings and a 7 mil twin rope doubled over. Tim climbs super fast so I was running to keep up. Aug 15, 2007

[Hide Comment] In 1985, we backpacked in for a more leisurely ascent. You can also check out other climbs on the way in and out, like the Echo Peaks. However, obtaining a backpacking permit may be more difficult these days. Aug 21, 2007

[Hide Comment] One of the most memorable climbs I have done. We did it North to South. There was some very exposed and tricky downclimbing involved, checking in at least 5.8 maybe 5.9. Anyway it was intense and I felt like there was a real possibilty to get the chop. The grade of the climb is really irrelevant. This climb is an abosulte thing of beauty. I have a Patagonia poster framed in my living room of this climb that Bird Lew signed for me. I look at it everyday and smile remembering what was one of the best days I've had in my life. Jan 22, 2008

[Hide Comment] Without a doubt a gem of the high Sierra. Apr 7, 2008

[Hide Comment] Really fun, unique climb on quality rock in a pleasant setting. Strongly recommend continuing past the north summit and finishing the ridge. If you're soloing or moving quickly otherwise, an obvious addition to the day is Cathedral Peak, right on the way back to the trailhead. Jun 29, 2009

[Hide Comment] +1 on doing the full traverse Apr 29, 2010

[Hide Comment] +2 on doing the full traverse.

Really how could you only do 1/2 of this awesome thing? Jul 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] Did this route way back in the late 1990s and it still remains one of my fondest memories of a day in the mountains. It's a big day, but we simul-climbed most of the route and it was a cruise. There is one section of the ridge where (no kidding) you are grabbing the crest with both hands (it's just a couple of inches wide) while traversing with your feet on knobs. Magical. And yes, do the whole thing; you just kind of walk off the north end and it's pretty darn cool. May 25, 2012

[Hide Comment] I soloed the last 2 towers for the first time yesterday. Most people bail off left where you can almost walk-off (reports of a 5.8 downclimb). I found one section of exposed 5.7 with some hollow sounding flakes on the last tower but no 5.8. Jun 27, 2012

[Hide Comment] It would be a shame to rappel at the North Summit, as the best climbing/exposure is on the second half! The very last (northernmost) tower on the ridge proved to be a bit of a challenge - a deceptive 4th class foot traverse along a ledge on the west side dead-ends just 20' shy of the route's finish. I found a few bail anchors here. One can ascend a steep (5.8+?) corner to gain the top of the tower, and then walkoff, or maybe retrace your steps and find an easier way. I'd agree that most of the cruxes on the second half involved downclimbing cracks and/or knobs. Jul 10, 2012

[Hide Comment] Awesome ridge, and for all the talk, the approach isn't as big a deal as you'd assume. The majority of the ridge from the top of the south headwall to the south summit is pretty much an incredible walk interrupted with some easy 4th class moves. The ridge was mobbed (on a beautiful June Saturday), but it was very easy to pass slow parties.

I have to kind of laugh at all the "I can't imagine why anyone would rap off the North Summit instead of doing the whole ridge" stuff. Strength? Stamina? Technical climbing ability maybe? Maybe weather? Motivation? While I was belaying the first pitch I chatted for a while with a soloist who had just finished Tenaya, and was headed to Cathedral after he finished Matthes. I bet he couldn't imagine why anyone would do less than that. Ha!

The casual morning walk in, leisurely climb from the south end to the North Summit, and easy walk out as the sun set was about as good as any day of climbing I've ever done. Jun 24, 2013

[Hide Comment] I just did Matthes Crest on June 11, 2014 and think the following changes/additions to Croft's guide might be helpful: (the capitalized items are changes I suggest)
The Approach: From the Cathedral Lakes Trail head in Tuolumne, take the trail about ½ mile and look for a smaller unmaintained trail that goes left and follow this for 2 miles to Budd Lake. At about 2/3 mile before the lake the trail crosses to the left side of Budd Creek. THIS CROSSING IS WHERE THE TRAIL RETURNS TO THE CREEK AFTER BEING WELL ABOVE AND OUT OF SIGHT OF THE CREEK FOR A HALF MILE OR SO. THIS IS ALSO WHERE THE CATHEDRAL PEAK TRAIL LEAVES THE CREEK AND STARTS TO GO UP.This next section is often showy in early season. If this is the case, it’s easier to stay to the right of the creek out on open south facing slabs. I HAVE GONE UP THIS TRAIL PETER DESCRIBES AND HAVE NOT FOUND A TRAIL THAT TAKES OFF LEFT FROM THE TRAIL AND GOES TOWARD BUDD LAKE SO MAYBE YOU JUST GO CROSS COUNTRY? A 1/4 MILE BEFORE Budd Lake, head X-country up and right of the Echo Peaks. (REMOVE AIMING) STAY WELL BELOW THE TALUS FIELD AND YOU WILL ARRIVE AT A 50 YARD wide bench that contours to the west (RIGHT)of this group of peaklets. After this bench narrows YOU WILL FIND A USE TRAIL and as you round a corner you see Matthes Crest to the south across a (REMOVE SMALL) valley WITH A LAKE AT THE BOTTOM. Drop down INTO THE TREES and contour (STAYING WELL BELOW THE SLABS OF MATTHES CREST AND AIM FOR A LINE OF TREES BELOW THE NOTCH AT THE BEGINNING OF THE CLIMB. (YOU WILL FIND A USE TRAIL THROUGH THIS LINE OF TREES AND UP TO THE BASE OF THE CLIMB)
The Climb: REMOVE "Climb steep hand cracks right on the edge" and ADD: CLIMB STEEP GULLIES/CHIMNEYS (APPROX 5'WIDE), SOME WITH HAND CRACKS IN THE BACK.

The Descent: I went a different way than Peter suggested and it seemed like a good way to go: Continue in the same direction as you were going on the Matthes Crest traverse stay high and don't go down into the valley below you. Near the base of the Echo peaks you will contour left toward a break in the ridge line that forms Echo Peaks. (there is another break to the left of the one I describe but this one isn't as big and forms a sharper "V") (There are only 2 or 3 of the Echo peaks to the left of this notch on the ridge and more of the Echo Peaks ridge line and peaks to the right) As you get closer to the break you will find a use trail. Once you get to the top of the Echo Peaks ridge go down toward the LEFT side of Budd Lake and follow the trail out. If it is early in the season this may not be the best way out due to heavy snow, instead the best descent would be the way you came in. I talked with someone who had gone the way Peter describes and he said it wasn't a good way to go. Please, if others can make suggestions on the descent I describe, post here and I will make corrections. Jun 14, 2014

[Hide Comment] I went and soloed this a few days ago (August 2nd 2014). What a cool feature! Car to car took about 8.5 hours and I was keeping a casual pace on purpose. I am not a soloist so I was a little apprehensive heading up there but found only 2 sections of what I felt was truly free soloing, the initial pitch to gain the ridge and the south summit. I felt the rope would have been an hindrance and would have been endlessly snagged on the many fins and corners, etc. Also, don't rappel after the North summit! How can you not do the whole thing? Aug 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] Fun route, simul-climbing all but the very start and the very end took us about 6.5 hours, but we were taking our time. Hike into echo lake area day one, climb day two, hike out day three for a nice relaxing backpack/climb.

If you're reading comments thinking about doing this route.. bring a new (small) notebook for the north summit box! As of 8/14/2014 there is no notebook and a bunch of loose pages quickly filling up. Aug 15, 2014

[Hide Comment] If rappelling from the North summit, you can do so with one 70m rope safely. This requires some 5.1 down-climbing, similar to that on the backside of Cathedral. Dragging 2 ropes out there is not necessary. Jul 6, 2015

[Hide Comment] There is a flake in the 5.7 handrail that gains the north summit that has become questionable. It felt different than the other 6 times I have pulled on it. Right where the handrail stops jogging left and the crack goes plumb. Not flexing or shifting, but sounds hollower than it used to be, heads up. Jul 26, 2015

[Hide Comment] Freesoloed this again on 7/25/15. The first time I climbed it I went all the way to the top of the South summit and did some kind of sketchy down climbing to the notch between the South and North summit. This time I didn't go all the way up to the top of the South summit but (just before starting up to the summit) I went right on a ramp toward a tree and continued on this ramp to the notch between the North and South summit. This may be considered cheating but I felt a lot less sketched out doing it this way. If you have a rope, by all means, go to the top of the South Summit and, after the summit, put gear in as you down climb. Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] More info after Climbing this again on 7/25/15. Once you get to the notch between the South and North summits you will find a ramp. If you go to the end of this ramp you will find a corner, if you are soloing, and you are gumby like me, I wouldn't climb this corner. Go back on the ramp a bit (less than 15' near the beginning of the ramp) and you can pull up onto a flake that goes up and left and you will come to another ramp and easier climbing to the chimney that goes to the top. This looks to me like a much easier way to go especially if you are soloing. If you have a rope, go up the corner. If you have other ideas, let me know by posting here. I could be all wet. Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] More info after climbing this again on 7/25/15. In areas along the ridge, if the climbing looks too difficult you can be a little creative and easily find ways around these down climbs by backtracking and traversing either left or right down from the ridge. People keep saying there is mandatory 5.8 or so down climbing after the North summit and after the wave. I think I saw this "mandatory" down climbing but, because I am a gumby, I won't do it. I go straight down left from the ridge about 50' and drop into a gully and go back up about 20' then find a ramp that I use to gain the ridge again. By doing as I describe, (IMHO) the North section of the climb is as easy as the South section. Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] More info after climbing this again on 7/25/15. At the very end of the ridge just before the last tower, (this is after the North peak and after the "wave") you can easily walk off the crest and head back home. I did this the first time I climbed the crest but felt like I was cheating. This time I tried to climb the last tower but couldn't find a way to do it without a rope so I backtracked and went down before this last tower. If you have a rope I would think you would want to climb this last tower so you could claim the entire traverse. (Any suggestions on how a gumby like me could solo this last tower would be appreciated) Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] Decent at south peak to get to rap stations on the west side of the notch between south and north peaks:

There are a whole series of "ramps" on the east side of the south peak. Which one? To get you around to the west side to gain the notch?

You make your way to the northern most ramp/ledge that is at the same elevation as the highest tree on the east side of the peak. The ledge is north of the tree. On the ledge move around the corner west and then make you way down to the notch. Go through the notch to a comfortable ledge on the west side which is also the start of the north peak climb. See the rap sling. Rap to the next rap maybe 40' lower and to climbers left ( north) You could also easily down climb to this rap location. From there rap to a final rap sling under a rock slab. You can do these with a 60 meter rope. Then 4th class down climb to the valley floor and trail out. Aug 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] Just a comment on the "5.8 downclimb" off North if you are doing the whole traverse.

This part had us most concerned and it definitely didn't feel harder than 5.6 probably more like 5.5. Pretty exposed with the hardest part about half way down where you have to step out onto a flake and kind of stem down.

If you are unconvinced, it is possible to protect the whole thing. Piton at top that you can back up as an anchor, first goes down and sews it up, 2nd cleans. Pretty safe tactic.

2nd half >> 1st half and 1st half I though was sweet. Sep 10, 2015

[Hide Comment] On the approach, I found it much easier to avoid Budd Lake, instead staying on the Cathedral climbers' trail until it starts to turn and head steeply up to the peak (currently right at a sign about staying on-trail to reduce erosion). From there you can head almost due S across a bit of flat and up some distinct but gradual gulleys to the right spot on the shoulder of Echo Peaks. Sep 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] I am still not sure where Matthes Crest Traverse ends. After I went up the north peak and across the "wave" there is what I think is considered the "mandatory 5.8 downclimb" I ended the traverse of Matthes Crest a little ways beyond there but there is, what looks to me like, more climbing continuing. I tried to solo this portion but couldn't find a way that I was comfortable soloing so I found a ramp and exited. Can others give me information? After conversations with other people, I think the way I did it is correct. Apr 11, 2016

[Hide Comment] Climbed Matthes Crest a couple days ago. We went down the climb at night and a BD #3 fell off my harness in the snow. If you find it and don't mind giving it back, I'll buy you beer! Thanks! Jun 15, 2016

[Hide Comment] I have to agree with TomC above; the approach seems way easier to completely avoid Budd Lake. On the way up stay on the Cathedral trail until nearly the last possible moment and then veer due south across a small flat and then into a gradual gulley. Following this will take you to the flat due west of Echo Peaks and that is precisely where you want to be.

The route is fantastic (I went S to N up to the south tower). Descending from here was unpleasant with a single 70m rope; we found a rappel station off a tree about 100m south of the S tower. Ended up making two rappels, each that would have been significantly nicer if I had 2 more meters of rope... even after making it down we still had to work around large snow patches, wet slabs, and loose rock. All in all 2.5 sketchy hours from the top of the S tower to flat ground.

My advice? Do the whole thing and avoid the midway descent! Jul 12, 2016

[Hide Comment] I think Tomko's report shows that rappelling down the West side from the South summit or south before it is difficult.
. (Just looking at the whole west side from the approach, I saw big tall expanses of rock south from the south summit).

I think what works much better is to keep going on a bit further north past the South summit, down into the notch between the South summit and North summit -- usually said to be a 5.2 down-climb (see comments above by donaldm and others). Then can make single-rope rappels in the very wide gully on the west side of that Notch. When I checked out that gully climbing up from the bottom in July 2016, I found several usable rock horns along the south side of the gully (descender's left). Some of the horns had fairly new-looking slings on them. Might also be some bushes or trees near the top of the notch.

Previous day I had talked with people who did just done those rappels with a single rope -- no problem.
. (I could easily believe that a rope shorter than 60 meters might work,
. . . but I don't know how much shorter).

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Also there have been reports on successfully rappeling down the West side of the North summit with a single 60-meter rope:
see Comments on the route North Ridge of Matthes Crest mountainproject.com/v/north…. Aug 20, 2016

[Hide Comment] Notch between S summit and N summit -- escape without a rope?

I checked this out from the bottom a couple of weeks ago. Climbed up the rather wide notch to about three-quarters from the top, tried several alternative to go higher but didn't like them. Then climbed back down to the bottom.

I'd say the lower two-thirds is easiest along the south side of the gully (descender's left). A few moves of 4th class, mostly 3rd class.

But around two-thirds or three-quarters I found a section about 25-30 feet height where almost all the holds were down-sloping. Pretty scary for me with no rope. Usually I feel comfortable soloing low class 5, but I couldn't talk myself into this stuff -- so I'm thinking most of this section was harder than low class 5.

Except there was one delicate-looking flake with nice positive holds (say like three-quarters of the way across toward the north side). I'd say using that would have made the whole route low class 5. But I was afraid the whole flake might break off if I committed full body-weight to it.

For someone without a rope feeling the need to escape, there is also the problem of finding that flake (or some safer or easier way) from the top.

My overall assessment:
There is no 3rd class or 4th class down-climb on the west side from the Notch. If you're not fully confident of down-climbing (on sight) say like ? 5.8 ? down-sloping granite, better bring a rope.

What might be possible is to make a single rappel down over the difficult section - (might work best somewhere near the south side of the gully, descender's left). Then down-climb below there to the bottom, mostly near the south side with some 4th class moves along the way. Aug 20, 2016

[Hide Comment] Agree with TomC and Tomko. We learned it the hard way. Sep 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] I think there is a lot of bravado going on here with the whole "just solo it mentality." Me and my partner regularly lead 5.8/5.9 on gear in places like Joshua Tree, Tahquitz, etc. and just recently climbed this route, pitching out the first and last sections. We opted to bail at the North summit due to weather so I can't speak for the rest of the climb, but we had absolutely no issues with ropes snagging or any other hindrance secondary to roping up. We were able to move fast, safely, and efficiently. I only say this so that someone reading these comments isn't persuaded to free-solo this route solely based off of the comments. It's a blast with a rope so long as you simul climb the majority of it. Plus the final pitch to gain the north summit is pretty damn burly (and grainy) for 5.7, and I would be scared shitless soloing it.

Side note, I climbed this on July 30 and encountered a party of 3-4 whose "leader" brought a girl who had NEVER trad climbed before and was trying to teach her how to use an auto-block during a lightning storm all whilst holding up the ONLY rap station. They were setting up the rappel while we were on the north summit, and we asked them to establish a rap line for everyone to use to get down in hopes that by the time we got down we could quickly get on rappel. By the time all 4 of us rap'd from the summit, they were STILL setting up the rappel and not a single person from their party had rappelled. I finally just slung the same tree as them and set up our own rappel line so that we did not all die while Climbing 101 lessons went on. This route may be 5.7, but it is in the mountains where weather kills people on a regular basis. Moreover, this is a route that is dangerous for the follower if they fall. Please use your heads next time--the alpine is not the place for beginners. You put all of our lives in jeopardy that day to include your own party's. Aug 7, 2017

[Hide Comment] Attempted the traverse last week.
Finding the recommended trails around Echo Meadow proved unlikely for us, more information on that approach would prove useful.
Roped up for simul-climbing (30m) for everything but the beginning which never seemed to be an issue for any part of the climb.
Smoke drifted in and hid incoming inclement weather. On the South Summit we heard a boom of thunder and immediately bailed down the North-South Notch via preplaced rap slings in the bushes (3 raps 60m apart; first rap roughly 100' below the S Summit).
We had lightning strike within 300m of us, so thank you to whomever has maintained the rap slings, purposefully or in the same situation, the time they saved may have saved our lives.
What an unbelievable feature otherwise. Eager to return when weather permits a safer traverse. Sep 10, 2017

[Hide Comment] This route was an anthill on the fine Saturday in August we climbed it. There were around 20 people simuling and 15 people soloing the route, many of whom had no business soloing. I was blown away by the rudeness of some groups climbing over, around and on top of each other. At one section near the end I was simuling down a 40 ft corridor with 1 shitty piece of gear between myself and my partner. This soloist was visibly shaking trying to climb over me and at one point grabbed my arm. This is already a dangerous pursuit I suggest people think carefully about putting themselves and others at risk for 6-9 hours of climbing. I also saw a 60+ year old man soloing and lose his balance and just barely catch himself at the start of the route. After a few hours of soloing / simuling I got into the flow but most of the day if a crucial hold breaks or you slip it will cost you and potentially others their lives.

We finished the entire traverse (much further than any other groups this day) and rappelled down some steep and extremely loose slabs. Overall an incredible day of climbing with some annoyances due to others etiquette. Sep 29, 2017

[Hide Comment] Amazing. Jun 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] Has anyone climbed Matthes Crest this season? How are the snow conditions? Jun 11, 2018

[Hide Comment] Small patches of snow on approach. Between cathedral fork and bud lake there is much water, often running down the trail, and mosquitos clinging to grass in numbers. Final slab approach, ridge and descent are snow free. Cold and windy on June 17. Jun 18, 2018

[Hide Comment] I climbed this with my partner last week. We had a late start at 8:30am and got to the route at 12pm. We finished the south buttress in 3 pitches around 2pm and ate lunch. Then we simul-climbed the ridge with about 50 ft between us until the south summit and took a break. At 5pm we decided finishing the route would be a risk and so we down-led a ramp to the notch, and rappelled twice with a single 70m on tat. There was procord and a biner at the top of the south summit which we should have cleaned! That rappel is NOT recommended for obvious reasons. Hiked back and made it to the car at 8:30pm.

We enjoyed the hiking and took our time; we completed an awesome portion of the route and I was totally satisfied.

My recommendation is that climbers prepare to start very early (4am) so that they start the south buttress at the crack of dawn. This will greatly increase your chances of completing the entire ridge.

I'm giving this route an R rating because falling at almost any time along the ridge is dangerous, unless you really are placing good, appropriate gear every body-length (which would make the route take much longer). Jun 19, 2018

[Hide Comment] The rappel down the west side of the notch between the South and North Summits is currently marked with bright red webbing and is very easy with a single 70m rope. There are no less than 4 slings and it has 2 aluminum rappel rings. You can lower the first person down all the way to the walk-off below the notch and then the second can rappel to the rope's ends then downclimb about 15 feet of easy 5th (5.2ish), with little consequence since you are right above the walk-off. All the other rappel stations off the North Summit are also marked with easily visible red-webbing.

Gaining the ridge at the south start can be done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope.

If climbing in a 2 person team with one rather new or inexperienced climber, staying roped up on the ridge can be fast using short-roping. Have the leader mountaineer's coil the rope and carry it bandoleer style to keep it tidy and manageable, keep about 40 feet between climbers, and have the leader (staying tied in) attach the short rope via a GriGri or auto-locking device to their belay loop. Now the leader can manage the length of rope between climbers by subtracting or adding loops to the mountaineer's coil (the leader can put a back-up knot behind their device but will have to undo and redo it to adjust the rope). When needing to belay the 2nd you can quickly throw in a couple cams, clip the rope through and they're on belay since you have the rope on a belay device already and good ledges abound. A hip belay while crouched or sitting behind a wall is also very quick and useful. In this manner, you can stay close enough to communicate and can move seamlessly from simuling to pitching-out with the leader essentially on self belay and the second as a moving "anchor." There are ample opportunities for natural pro if you snake the rope back and forth over the ridge and between gendarmes and even trees.

We used no nuts. Also, no cams smaller than probably yellow Metolius (0.4 BD). I wouldn't carry nuts, or just bring a few in case you think you might need them for emergency rap anchors.

For routefinding (going S to N): going left (west) around all high points until the South Summit seemed to always be the best options. At the South Summit, the easiest ramp is on the right (east).

Mosquitos around late June were TERRIBLE. Bad enough to almost make us quit and turn around. Bring bug spray or repellent wipes and stay far away from Bud Lake.

The Supertopo approach suggestion to go to Bud Lake seems unnecessary and hard to follow. I think a better way (that we used to get back) is to stay on the Cathedral Peak Trail until you gain some elevation and can see Echo Peaks, then move off the trail and go cross-country through sparse terrain toward the west end of Echo Peaks (follow Supertopo description and pictures from here) where you drop down toward Matthes crest when it comes into view.

If you bring a water filter, there are plenty of streamlets in the valley between Echo Peaks and Matthes Crest to filter from (at least in Spring and early Summer). That way you can carry just enough for the approach, filter some and replenish for the climb, and then replenish again for the hike out and never have to carry more than a single 1 or 1.5 L water bottle each.

When hiking between Echo Peaks and Matthes crest, to avoid losing and having to re-gain elevation in the valley between them, keep a contour at a consistent elevation by hiking in a crescent-shaped path between the two rather than a straight line. Jun 29, 2018

[Hide Comment] Amazing Hike and Climb! On the first pitch I tried the variation to the right of the standard route. Almost topped out in a single 60m pitch, would probably do it in one pitch if had 70m rope. It was easy 5.4 climbing, lots of protection if you go far enough to the right into a crack, but I encountered a really scary loose block about 40-50m from belay and had to navigate around. It seemed like a perfect hold and it could have been really bad if me or my partner pulled on it. Be careful! Aug 23, 2018

[Hide Comment] The big, steep corner to the left of the regular start is a good way to pass groups on the normal start / right variation. The corner itself felt 5.9ish, then there's a ledge, then about 10 feet beyond a 10c-ish crack switching face move, then another stance. Another long, awesome (I was grinning the whole time) pitch on juggy knobs up an arete brings you to the crest. Sep 6, 2018

[Hide Comment] Richard's description of the alternate left start is spot on. I describe it here too: mountainproject.com/photo/1…

I did the 10c left move as a C1 tension traverse. Sep 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] I wrote about my experience traversing Matthes Crest. If you're interested, you can check it out at the link below.

hikethepla.net/matthes-cres… Jul 28, 2019

[Hide Comment] If you are quick, approaching via Tenaya is probably easier. you top out tenaya and can see Matthes, just walk as the crow flies and you are there. Really pretty hike as well. Stop about halfway and scope the Matthes descent path you want to take around the west side of echo to get to cathedral where the trail to the road is super easy to follow. Aug 5, 2019

[Hide Comment] For any who are interested: made it down from the North Summit in two raps with a 70m and some very easy downclimbing (3rd class between raps, 4th at bottom)! Rap of block to bush with cord (72m) then down and climbers left to easy downclimb Aug 16, 2019

[Hide Comment] It is possible to save some weight on the approach by refilling water on the way. However, be aware that Budd lake is the last *reliable* water source, the streams on the Matthes side of the pass can be dry. If that's the case, you're looking at a fairly long way down to Echo lake Sep 25, 2019

[Hide Comment] Climbed it on 9/25, south to north complete traverse. I thought there were no moves harder than 5.6 on the northern section. One steep down step was easily circumvented by going on the east side. I would strongly recommend doing the northern third of the ridge, it is more fantastic than the southern part. I was soloing however, and the down climbing might be more awkward if one is trying to place gear and manage ropes.

An amazing piece of rock. Sep 27, 2019

[Hide Comment] We just did up to the South Summit to save time, but found the downclimb to the notch to be maybe 5.7ish. The topo showed a 5.2 variation but we couldn't find it, it seems best to skip the south summit and rap from the north. Nov 13, 2019

[Hide Comment] Incredible climb with some amazing exposure. After having done the approach once from Cathedral trailhead and twice from Tenaya, I definitely prefer the Tenaya approach if you are comfortable solo/simul climbing Tenaya peak. From Tenaya, it's a pretty flat to slightly downhill approach to Matthes until the last part where you hike up to the start. The route finding is also pretty straight forward and can be found on the triple crown page. After the first three pitches, the climb definitely has two characters, quick and mostly 4th-easy 5th class up until the south tower, then more exposed and 5.7-5.8 climbing from the North tower on. If it's your first time climbing this and you like exposure, I do recommend doing the north tower on so you can get on features like the Wave and the North Tower down climb. However, going forward, I will probably rap down after the south tower unless a partner is really determined to do the north section. Jul 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] If one chooses to rap at the south/north summit, only half the dishes were done. Who does half the dishes when there is a full sink worth to clean up?

Finishing the whole ridge is the only way to do it.

Rappeling off the south/north summit or anywhere for that matter should be in an “emergency only”situation. (It is easy to bail anywhere on the ridge if needed anyhow)

Why is there an established rap anchor in the middle of the ridge? From the historical documentation, Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and Walter Brem climbed it first in 1931 south to north. Charles and Ellen Wilts did it from north to south in 1947. There are no mention of any rappels, only indicating each party did the full traverse of the crest in their chosen direction and walked off.

With full respect for the ridge in its entirety. The real fun climbing starts on the north end. The route is so beautiful in its full length that it would be a shame to miss out on the exceptional climbing and exposure on the north ridge.

I digress…but, please try not to leave the dishes half washed. =) Jul 16, 2021

[Hide Comment] I'd like to echo the comments that soloing the route is unnecessary. My partner and I pitched out the start and north summit and simulclimbed the rest, taking only a couple hours on the route and dramatically upping the safety margin. Trip report if interested: TheMtsAreCalling.com/matthes/

Also, it's pretty easy to tag Echo Peaks on the way in or out- basically on the way and has some fun extra scrambling if you're wanting more. Oct 22, 2021

[Hide Comment] Did this as part of a Matthes - Cathedral linkup last weekend. Super fun! Although this felt more like a hike for climbers rather than a climb. My partner and I pitched out the start in 2 60m pitches, and did the Southern half in two simul blocks feeling super safe (placed a piece every 50 feet or so).

The "5.7" crux to gain the North Summit felt very, very heady, but I'd attribute that to the decking potential. I'm stoked to go pull that move again with the gear and moves dialed.


N Summit Descent Beta:
- No fixed anchors, just tat.
- As of 7/16/22 you can safely rap off the north summit (no downclimbing) with a 60m. A 50m will likely do the trick. A party rapping with a 40m will leave gear. Jul 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] +1 on doing the rest of it... Maybe adding a new route called 'Matthes North Peak via South Ridge' for the abbreviated version would make more sense. Anyway, here's some beta.

• Soloing: Seriously, guys, simuling is way safer. We were super happy we brought a rope. Plus you get to pitch out the 5.7/5.8 stuff! You'll still spend plenty of time in the no-fall zone, don't worry. The rope just makes it so instead of dying you break your legs :)
• Cams: You don't need #3's, and you certainly don't need two. We brought .4-2, with doubles in .5, .75, 1, and we felt that we had plenty of pro.
• 50M rope is *perfect* if you're doing the whole thing! Two pitches for the tricky start, another pitch for the north summit, simul'd the rest. Some nonsense towards the end as well.

With some practice, you'll find yourself chugging along faster than some soloists on this ridge despite your increased safety margin. Would recommend! Sep 3, 2022

[Hide Comment] Did full S to N traverse Sat 8/26, took us a bit over 3 hours. Budd Lake Approach can be a tad tricky if you don’t know exactly where to go. not insubstantial.

We soloed everything but the north tower pitch, which aside from 1-2 positive 5.7 moves - ended up feeling way easier than it looks (trust me, it doesn’t look easy approaching it).
The north side is definitely the spice - with exposed and committing downclimbs and wild step acrosses! I’m not a very comfortable at downclimbs so the “5.7-8” parts felt very very spooky. I actually decided to make a very brief rappel over the short overhanging crack downclimb. Climbing is never super hard but I agree you must be solid at the grade for the north portion - it’s real! What an amazing position and SUPER fun ridge climbing on mega air. Classic!

We also managed to mess up descent (I think) going around and back to Budd Lake. Got cliffed put a few times east of the lake but eventually found talus and slabs to descend. There’s options of varying sketchiness.

Super cool! Aug 27, 2023

[Hide Comment] Unless you are terribly strong, don't be fooled by the approach and descent time in the description. I would say 4-6 hours for approach and 4-6 hours for descent is probably a realistic plan for average people... Nov 5, 2023

[Hide Comment] Here's a GPS track that is mostly on route on the approach:

gaiagps.com/map/?loc=9.5/-1… Jul 8, 2024

[Hide Comment] Great climb. 12 hour C2C (4 hours to the base, 4.5 hours climbing (rappelled the notch after summiting the south tower), 3.5 hours hike out). Average fitness coming from sea level. Stayed roped up the entire time (simul climbed with 30M of rope between us and 30M in the pack). Did not simul the down climb from the south summit to the notch. Gear: three Micro Traxions, 10 shoulder length slings, 1x-#3, 2x-#2, 2x-#1, 3x-.75, 2x.5, 1x.4, 1x.3, 1x-black totem, zero nuts. 60 meter rope. Approach shoes. Storm rolled in on us pretty fast. Jul 17, 2024