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Routes in Mouth Boulders

Dr. Teeth S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kevorkian S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A very short, crimpy and balancy route on the north side of a limestone boulder.

The route starts just less than vertical and gets slightly overhanging. There are a few crimps, a couple of sidepulls and a sloper or two. Juggy holds right at the top.

There is a (very) short crack to the right of the last bolt.

Don't blow the second clip; it'd probably be painful. You can walk off the backside if you don't feel like lowering or rappelling.

Location

Located on the north side of the 3rd large boulder up the hillside.

Protection

3 bolts to chains. The chains are set back from the edge a bit so bring slings (longer than standard 24") to toprope it without dragging the rope over the edge.

Photos

Tristan Mayfield
SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
Tristan Mayfield   SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
I really liked it for a small route. I definitely expected it be easier, but just make sure to spot the little crimps you need just below the second bolt and it's pretty good. Jul 20, 2013
Canyon Copa  
 
A lot tougher than I was expecting. Clipping the second bolt definitely got my heart racing, as well as the boulder-type top out to the chains. May 29, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.10b
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.10b
Felt hard for the grade. An ok little route that's worth doing once. It's also the closest limestone sport route to the parking lot! Jul 23, 2010
Jonathan Adams
Provo UT
 
Jonathan Adams   Provo UT
 
I had put off this route for a long time because of how short and out of the way it is, but I finally went and did it today. It was a surprisingly fun route, and definitely harder than it looks. Getting from the second to the third bolt I had to get a little creative to make it up. If you're looking for a short fun climb near the entrance of the canyon, it's worth doing. Nov 7, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
When I went to do this route I assumed it'd be a "no-star" special. Actually, I thought it was pretty fun, and harder than it looks; it's just short. If it were longer I'd probably give it two stars. May 10, 2007