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Routes in Sunshine Dome

French Curve T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of Darkness T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Narrow Escape T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shining Path T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Six Cowgirls for Breakfast T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sunrise Ridge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunshine Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Tree Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, David Kozak, and Peter Prandoni
Page Views: 3,057 total · 23/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Apr 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

500 feet to the right of Heart of Darkness is a line of bolts leading up to a left-facing flake. Belay near the top of the flake. Face climb up and right through the crux to another left-facing corner. Belay halfway up the corner. Continue up, switching cracks when they run out. Belay next to a big roof then climb past the bolt and up the dihedral to the top.

Protection

Standard rack and draws.

Photos

Vincent Morton
Colorado Springs,Colorado
Vincent Morton   Colorado Springs,Colorado
I wanted to echo Allen's comment about the Shining Path. The route is excellent and worth seeking out. For gear you only need a single set of Camalots from #0.4 to #4, and a regular set of nuts. Micro cams and micro nuts are not needed as there is nowhere to place them on the slab, and the cracks take medium/large gear. Do bring about 5 long draws in addition to 5 or so quickdraws. Sep 20, 2010
slim    
Awesome story. Sep 2, 2010
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
There used to be a tricam smashed into a pocket as the first piece of protection on this route. A late start gave me incentive to lead the last two pitches as one. I ran out of gear and just sat down in some flared groove near the top without anything as Noel bat manned up the last pitch in the dark. He wouldn't talk to me after he got to the belay and saw zero anchors. Heading back to the car in the dark, Kirk Miller, adamant about the "correct" way to go, headed off to Big Rock. We made a huge bonfire at the car and drank all but one of his beers by the time he burst out of the forest a couple hours later, pretty scratched up. Sep 2, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
First two pitches have new ASCA bolts. There are still some old bolts on the last pitch. Aug 25, 2008
WMcD  
Can anyone comment to the condition of the bolts on this route? Aug 25, 2008

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