Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 42.71491, -109.15911
FA: Gary Cole, Don Ryan 1963
Page Views: 16,260 total · 70/month
Shared By: Sarge on Mar 31, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
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Description Suggest change

This route is INTERESTING. If you're looking for an adventure, it is a must do.

P1. Climb the obvious crack for 140' 5.7-5.8

P2. Move climber's right and follow twin 5.7 cracks to a notch or shoulder.

P3. Move climber's right again and begin to "tunnel." This is where the climb gets crazy. You are in the Great North Chimney. Basically, there is a detached piece of granite (about the size of two football fields) that you climb through. I thought it felt like a coffin. The route finding on this pitch is very difficult because there is low light. My partner and I tunneled all the way through to the SW side. CRAZY. We found a plethora of bail gear at this point.

P4. Climb a beautiful 5.8 corner.

P5. This pitch is chossy and depending on your skill, you might want to unrope.

Location Suggest change

Finding the start of the route is key. You can easily get off-route.
Descent is dubious. We rapped 4 single-rope rappels.

Protection Suggest change

Standard alpine rack, two ropes seemed unnecessary.
Check out Joe Kelsey's Wind River book for further details.

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

from the approach ridge
from the approach ridge
 14
Route Overlay North Ridge<br>
Route Overlay North Ridge
 7
Route Overlay North Ridge
Route Overlay North Ridge
 2
reccomended
reccomended
 3
Pitch 4. This pitch tunnels through the chimney 40-50 feet and then heads up about 20 feet to a break in the ceiling and a ledge.
Pitch 4. This pitch tunnels through the chimney…
 2
Jeff on the 5.9 corner pitch to the top. This is an excellent way to finish the route. Highly recommended over the 4th class option.
Jeff on the 5.9 corner pitch to the top. This i…
 1
The only detraction to this great route is the extent of existing: route descriptions, comments of descriptions, and comments on comments. By adding this storied hand-drawn topo of the GNC, I join the long list of wonderfuls that have posted before me.
The only detraction to this great route is the…
 1
untitled
 1
The roped climbing begins at the base of a crack that extends 140 feet up the ridge's west side to the shoulder above. I started the pitch here, although I think you can scramble up a bit higher from the left and start at the crack shown the next photo.
The roped climbing begins at the base of a crac…
 1
Pitch 3. Jeff chimneying to the chockstone belay. Only the last 10 feet or so of this pitch involve any chimneying.
Pitch 3. Jeff chimneying to the chockstone bela…
 2
Steeple in the middle
Steeple in the middle
 2
Pitch 5. The harder (5.9) but better option is to climb cracks in the summit block right of the leaning flake.
Pitch 5. The harder (5.9) but better option is…
 1

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