Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15,710 total · 75/month
Shared By: Sarge on Mar 31, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route is INTERESTING. If you're looking for an adventure, it is a must do.

P1. Climb the obvious crack for 140' 5.7-5.8

P2. Move climber's right and follow twin 5.7 cracks to a notch or shoulder.

P3. Move climber's right again and begin to "tunnel." This is where the climb gets crazy. You are in the Great North Chimney. Basically, there is a detached piece of granite (about the size of two football fields) that you climb through. I thought it felt like a coffin. The route finding on this pitch is very difficult because there is low light. My partner and I tunneled all the way through to the SW side. CRAZY. We found a plethora of bail gear at this point.

P4. Climb a beautiful 5.8 corner.

P5. This pitch is chossy and depending on your skill, you might want to unrope.

Location Suggest change

Finding the start of the route is key. You can easily get off-route.
Descent is dubious. We rapped 4 single-rope rappels.

Protection Suggest change

Standard alpine rack, two ropes seemed unnecessary.
Check out Joe Kelsey's Wind River book for further details.

Photos

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