Avg: 3.7 from 284
votes
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
An amazing, if unlikely line up the SSW side of the End Pinnacle, around the corner from Days of Future Passed. Great, mostly well-protected and airy climbing with a little bit of everything. The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.
P1: Start on the slab under the boulder to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted. 5.10a, 150'.
P2: Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove. 5.8R, 150'.
P3: Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and to the right. A 3/4" cam is necessary here. Exposed! 5.10a, 130'.
P4: Up the steep slab past two bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.
P5: Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top. 5.8+, 100'.
Descent: 3 rappels. Complicated. Move east and slightly south below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap slings. Rap 150' (2 ropes) to a set of bolts. Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney. Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge. Rap off a slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.
The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle.
For approach from the west side of the Stronghold, see my comments for the approach to Rockfellow formation.
2 ropes, 18 quickdraws, wires, TCUs, small to med cams, slings
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Grand Rapids, MI
Tucson, AZ
Santa Fe
And then there's yet another bolt on the ledge farther left, and, um, yeah, well, lots of bolts all over this dome. Sep 22, 2008
Tucson/DMR
toofasttopos.com/free/
Note that this topo is for the west face of end pinnacle. After the third pitch, Endgame continues on the southwest face. For this reason, two topos need to be downloaded. Oct 16, 2008
Tucson
Variation 1 5.11+: About 5 or 6 bolts up from the start of the climb along the hand traverse, a line of bolts go straight up a very blank section of face to the first belay of Welcome to the Machine.
Variation 2 5.10+: On the third pitch as the climbing begins to ease up is a shallow dihedral that heads up the steep headwall. Climb this until possible to finish on Welcome to the Machine. The 20 feet of 5.7 is a tad less exciting if you bring a couple of hand sized cams to plug in at the top of Welcome... or if you want a mental challenge move right at the last bolt and finish on Great Gig In The Sky which is about 5.7 to the ledge also. Nov 2, 2008
Tucson/DMR
tucson, az
Me: Why did you skip all those bolts ?
Miles: Didn't see 'em. (said with a sly half-smile)
! Jan 14, 2009
Scottsdale, AZ
P2: Runout 5.8 climbing
P3: Awesome. Stay Low
P4: Climbed in November. Was in the shade until P4.
P5: More difficult than 5.8+ when in the sun. Nov 13, 2009
Phoenix, AZ
Tucson/DMR
Try the upper variation to Endgame off its third pitch. In my opinion it's the best pitch on the wall. Very exposed and stellar climbing! Nov 23, 2009
Tucson, AZ
Oct 31, 2010
My partner and I had heard it could be done, but we took 2 ropes to the base anyways. Once there, we were told by 2 guys who had done Endgame recently that one 70 m rope would work, and it did. I'm guessing the 2 intermediate anchors that we had to use (both 2 rap bolts) are relatively new.
If you want to rap off End Pinnacle with one 70 m rope, this may help:
(1)Rap off the 2 bolt anchor near the pine tree on the summit. As you drop onto the vertical face, start looking down and to your left for a set of rap bolts just outside small chimney
(2)Rap down and right to an anchor that is still above the large chimney.
(3)Rap down into large chimney until you get to an anchor that will be on the south side of the chimney (your left). These are easy to miss if you're not looking for them.
(4)Rap from this anchor down the chimney towards the "hole")
(5)Make one move up and scramble out hole to last rappel anchor and rap from here. At the bottom of this rappel, swing over to your left to get to solid rock you can stand on. Easy downclimb from here.
It is a trade off for sure. We only had one rope climbing up, which of course was nice, but had to do 5 rappels, rather than 3. Dec 11, 2010
Phoenix, AZ
Fort Collins CO
Make 2 two single rope raps from the summit to the P3 belay. You might be able to do these with a 60M. We used a 70M, with low potential for stuck ropes. Then make two double rope raps using the Jimmywacky P1 anchors. (50M and 61M) There are potential rope issues, so think about how you pull your ropes and scope out the chicken heads on the way down!
I only placed a #0.75, #1, and a large offset nut on P2. Nov 18, 2012
South Lake Tahoe
Regarding the gear thing, I thought the only piece I was really happy to have was a .75 (green) camalot on pitch 3. I placed 2 nuts mainly because I could, but the runout sections are very easy on pitches 1 and 2. Of course YMMV, but consider a green camalot for P3 if 5.10 is near your limit. Nov 7, 2013
Redstone, CO
Thank you,
Chris 520-548-6652 Oct 19, 2014
SLC
Denver, CO
P1: Stout 5.10 slab moves gain a weird easy flake. Then pumpy 5.10 for a few bolts to an easy roof pull.
P2: Easy easy run out to 5.6-5.8 jug hauling.
P3: The money. "Every climbers dream: exposed climbing on jugs"-my partner that lead the pitch. Crux seemed to be moving off the belay. Probably would have been easier if it was baking in the sun making the small holds feel slimy.
P4: Slabby dish climbing. Short but sweet.
P5: From the nice ledge head straight up from the anchors, possibly using the good flake like feature to the right to get started. 2 bolts exactly where you want them. Bring your balls.
We descended Jimmywacky with 3 double rope (1 60 and 1 70m) raps. The last one just made it. It helped to simu rap to stretch the rope. This brought us just around the corner from our packs and seemed like a much quicker option than the descent listed.
Feb 14, 2016
Littleton, CO
Gilbert AZ
n az
Tucson, AZ
CO
Bowlder, CO
The Old Pueblo, AZ
I'm really enjoying the image of the FA sitting down to inscribe each hanger with a personalized insult... Jan 7, 2020
Bend, OR
Chicago, IL
Overall, if you are considering doing this route, there are bolts protecting the harder parts of the climb (very well protected) and can be runout when there is easier climbing on larger chickenheads.
Give yourself time for the hike in and out, we had to hike out in the dark which was not the most easy pathfinding. Nov 8, 2021
Los Alamos, NM
Arizona, Tucson
CO mostly
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque
Denver, CO