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Routes in Center/Headwall

Being and Nothingness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0+
Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Halcyon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napoleon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spitfire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Swiftness Direct T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swiftness, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walter Cat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Brian Spiewak ?
Page Views: 3,718 total, 28/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The route follows the corner that divides the tower from the main headwall. Start up the crack and huecos, staying in the corner and climbing past two bolts on 5.8 liebacks. Lieback and jam up the steepening corner and pull on slick jams into a pod. Place some good gear and pull the crux moves into the 5.9 corner above. Fun climbing in the clean corner leads to the top of triton tower.

Location

Start at the base of Triton Tower just right of "The Swiftness" where the tower meets the headwall from various approach options. Rap from the top of Triton Tower by the standard rap route down the slabby face, then down from the Halcyon or Swiftness anchor to the base of the route. Two more raps lead to the ground.

Protection

.25 to 1.5" camming devices with many .5-1" pieces.

Photos

amockalypsenow
San Diego
 
amockalypsenow   San Diego
 
A couple 1s wouldn't hurt, but I found the crack to stay in the .4-.75 range most of all- if you have extras of these sizes bring them! Nov 3, 2017
Arin Earl  
 
Great climb! Brought triples to 1". The route is still pretty dirty. Jul 2, 2015
Adam Lawrence
Monterey, CA
 
Adam Lawrence   Monterey, CA
 
This is probably my new favorite line on ECM. The only problem was the amount of vegetation on the route. I am not sure how long it has been since it has been climbed but I was definitely doing just as much gardening as I was climbing. Looking forward to returning with a couple tools to clean it up a bit more. Definitely a must do on ECM once clean. Sep 26, 2011
If I remember correctly, there are some small alien placements in little pods down near the pin. The two bolts were on the ramp area. I would guess the bolt you clipped was the lower bolt, but I may be mistaken. I do remember options for gear (albeit in crappy rock) near the bolts. I believe they were in the #2 and #3 or #4 camalot range. The climbing near the bolts is relatively easy, though, and would be runout but not unreasonable without them. I'm told that Brian placed the pin on the FA (he didn't have the right size to fit properly), but not the bolts. Later, he cleaned loads of crappy rock and munge out of the crack near the bolts before deciding the rock quality was too poor and decided to place the bolts. Nov 1, 2007
Edited the gear recommendation to "many .5-1in. pieces". I have to agree. Nothing bigger than a 1.5" piece needed. May 15, 2007
ChugachMan
  5.10c
ChugachMan  
  5.10c
Fantastic climb, and arguably my favourite at El Cajon. Although Adam says several in the 0.5-0.75 range, I'd go ahead and extend that into the 1 range as well. It's a great pitch, takes some thinking, and has multiple cruxes to stay relatively sustained until close to the end when you'll cruise the last 25 feet to the finish... May 2, 2007