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Routes in Maltese Falcon Cliff

Maltese Falcon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porridge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadow S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dave Bengston, 1990
Page Views: 186 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This steep arete sits around the corner to the left of the other routes and like its name, is in the shade all the time. The climb starts with technical pockets and edges up to a big pocket jug. From here a quick layback up the arete leads to a double sided flake/rest. The clip after the rest is very difficult(esp. for short people) and there is velcro for setting up a "reachable" long draw. The next section is the bouldery crux moving out left to gain a large hueco. Steep jugs lead from here. Great bouldery route other than the hard clip.


6 quickdraws to anchors


- No Photos -
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
What exactly is velcro for a "reachable" long draw mean? Surely this doesn't mean that the FA glued velcro to the rock? Oct 12, 2010
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I'm sure it does.

Personally, I prefer duct tape:

Nov 3, 2010
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
Excuse my naïvety, but couldn't this be accomplished by bolting the route better? The duct tape is funny though. Nov 9, 2010
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
"Surely this doesn't mean that the FA glued velcro to the rock?
couldn't this be accomplished by bolting the route better?"

I doubt the FA put the velcro there on this route. He may have been taller and not needed it and thought the bolt was in the perfect spot. I think the velcro was added later by a shorter climber and may have been removed by now. Nov 9, 2010
Anyone know what the route to the left of "the Shadow" is? Looks like a nice arête climb but it is not in the Lewis/Moynier book for the area. Aug 7, 2013
C Miller   CA  
The line to the left of Shadow is an old 5.13a TR problem which was, I think, bolted and led by Lonnie Kauk. Aug 7, 2013
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
Can anyone confirm that above statement? I've also been curious about it. Jul 24, 2016

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