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Stratocaster Direct

5.12b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 109 votes
FA: Dan McQuade, Spring 1992
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Sandstone Quarry > Calico Hills Trail > Stratocaster Area
Warning Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste DetailsDrop down

Description

The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)

Location

This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!

Protection

Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt McMurray crossing-through after the dynamic throw following the crux.<br>
Photo by Jenn Hyla
[Hide Photo] Matt McMurray crossing-through after the dynamic throw following the crux. Photo by Jenn Hyla
The hero clip.
[Hide Photo] The hero clip.
Photo by John Tormalehto
[Hide Photo] Photo by John Tormalehto
me mid-dyno for the jug of glory
[Hide Photo] me mid-dyno for the jug of glory
Seen here: Chris Forte<br>
Photo Credit: Zack Barbee
[Hide Photo] Seen here: Chris Forte Photo Credit: Zack Barbee
Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move on it.
[Hide Photo] Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move on it.
worth the approach and then some.
[Hide Photo] worth the approach and then some.
Josh, post crux.
[Hide Photo] Josh, post crux.
Josh...firing.
[Hide Photo] Josh...firing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] The gate on the biner of the first fixed draw is still in the same condition as of 11/30/13. Clip it, but stick the second for sure. The crappy biner still does a fine job of redirecting the forces if you blow the dyno and keeps you from slamming into your belayer. The crux move is rad as hell! Dec 3, 2013
Justin Streit
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Was at the wall again today and did the jump start for fun. Good times for anyone in the area. Good way to end the day with the homies. Jan 9, 2014
Noah Kaufman
Earth
 
[Hide Comment] Hey y’all, what’s the boulder leading into Stratocaster go at? Looks v9-11 range, but didn’t try it. Actually looks fun and would theoretically turn this small stout line into a 14a... kinda haha. Great route! The jump is rad too! Apr 15, 2018
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] 3rd bolt after crux is looking poor. Spins and is coming out of its hole. Could use the services of the ASCA for glue in replacement soon May 19, 2019
Jamie Sookprasong
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Spencer - new bolts as of this afternoon - go climb it! Also, please consider donating to the ASCA if you appreciate climbing on safe bolts!

Noah - boulder crux off the ground feels around V6. Perhaps easier if you just go straight for the big dyno which the photos on this page seem to suggest, but here's my slightly more static beta if anyone wants it: instagram.com/p/B6XF8AKjOGW/ Dec 21, 2019
[Hide Comment] The first and second bolt have been replaced with Wave bolts in better rock. Dec 22, 2019
[Hide Comment] It's actually the 2nd and 3rd bolts which are shiny and new. The first bolt is rusty and scary. Jan 14, 2020
Travis Bieber
Fort Collins
  5.12c X
[Hide Comment] I would recommend not stick clipping the 1st or 2nd wave bolt, if you blow the cross move on the boulder problem before the jug you'll swing hard into the shrub and rocks behind the direct start of the climb. The very first bolt, a 3/8 expansion bolt, is unusable. Mar 16, 2021
Redacted Redactberg
"a world travella"
 
[Hide Comment] What is the grade of this with the jump start? It's a pretty easy jump (I'm 6' 0'', but it's a huge jug you are jumping too, and the jump is maybe a few feet), and it's really juggy climbing joining into Stratocaster above. I'd say it's still 11d. Mar 17, 2024