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Stratocaster Direct
5.12b,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3 from 109
votes
FA: Dan McQuade, Spring 1992
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Sandstone Quarry
> Calico Hills Trail
> Stratocaster Area
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)
Location
This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!
Protection
Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.
[Hide Photo] Matt McMurray crossing-through after the dynamic throw following the crux. Photo by Jenn Hyla
[Hide Photo] The hero clip.
[Hide Photo] Seen here: Chris Forte Photo Credit: Zack Barbee
[Hide Photo] Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move on it.
Salt Lake City, UT
Las Vegas, NV
Earth
Grand Junction
Seattle, WA
Noah - boulder crux off the ground feels around V6. Perhaps easier if you just go straight for the big dyno which the photos on this page seem to suggest, but here's my slightly more static beta if anyone wants it: instagram.com/p/B6XF8AKjOGW/ Dec 21, 2019
Fort Collins
"a world travella"