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Routes in Cool World Wall

Cool World S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool World Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mr. Freeze S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 215 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 129 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chuck on Apr 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

This is a three pitch climb, 5.7, 5.11a, 5.6.

The first pitch starts the closest set of bolts to the creek. It traversed to the right following a beautiful line in the rock.

The 2nd pitch is the crux. It starts out at 5.6 for about 15 feet to a nice ledge. To the right of the next bolt there's a nice pocket just out of reach. Once you find it the rest is straight forward.

Be ready for hanging belay points. The bolts on the last pitch are spaced far apart. you can use four-foot slings to wrap some chicken heads. Be careful not to get your rope stuck when you pull it off the 3rd pitch.

Location

200 feet past the second bridge, across the creek from the trail.

Protection

Sport route. 13 quick draws.
BJB
Texas
  5.11+
BJB   Texas
  5.11+
It looks like the route hasn't been done in sometime, so I figured I'd update the conditions a little bit.
The first pitch is still spectacular, fun and unique. The third pitch is also a lot of fun, but something must have broken off the 2nd pitch. I have done a lot of 11's on limestone and felt like the 2nd pitch crux was more like an 11+. It could be that holds have broken off, as there were really no feet up to the pocket, and even after snagging the pocket it was pretty hard to work up to the next bolt. Maybe I missed something but I was really surprised by how hard it was so I thought i'd give a heads up. Also, there were a lot of wasps on p2 and they really liked that pocket, so be careful reaching in there.
I'd also recommend the walk off because the rappel was one of the worst i've done in awhile. Aug 9, 2012
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.11b
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.11b
Finally got the RP despite a hold breaking off mid climb. More holds have likely broken off over the years. Felt 5.11b fer sure. Getting to the pocket was key, as was finding the crimpers and small feet through the crux.

Walking off the top saves time and avoids the hassles of getting your rope stuck on all of the P3 chicken heads. May 4, 2009
The REAL first pitch is one of the most unique pitches anywhere! The second is a bit crumbly but stay on the left arete/prow and you will find the best rock. There is an option that stays more in the center of the wall, but the difficulty is stepped up some. The last pitch is a slab but still exciting with the neat plate features. A RC must do! Mar 13, 2009
Chuck
Columbus, GA
 
Chuck   Columbus, GA
 
My second time on this route, I tied two ropes together to cut it down to two raps. Unfortunately, there was too much friction to pull the ropes. Jul 17, 2006