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Routes in Roof Ranch

NiƱos V5 6C
Blood Moon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brown Eyed Girl V4 6B
Brown Eyed Girl Left V7 7A+
David V2 5+
Electric Mexican V3 6A
Gladiators V3 6A
Goliath V5- 6C
Greenhorn Traverse V2 5+
Kickin' It Like A Moose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moonsault T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Overganging Arete V3 6A
Remnant Militia V6 7A
Rising Sun T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rusty Trombone, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seven Different Delusions S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sparkling Touch, The T V9 7C
Squat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Mexican V4 6B
Unknown 5.9 Dihedral 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V-easy 3
Unknown Crack to Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4 R
Unnamed Inversion Roof 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4 6B
Warmup Boulder Left 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Warmup Boulder Right 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Wrangler, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wu-tang V7-8 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 5,834 total, 41/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 14, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the the beautiful offwidth roof thats about a hundred feet to the right of Moonsault. The bolts are there because when Bob Scarpelli did this thing there was no kind of reliable protection that was big enough available yet. If you use them, back them up. Squeeze up a chimney to the base of the roof and power your way out the roof using stacks, face holds, and over the head foot and leg tricks. Wild climbing. Beautiful route. One of the original offwidth roofs in the country.

The name is from the fact that it looks like a bare butt squatting person. Guess where the crux is.

Protection

3 bolts, also bring one old #5 Friend to back up the bolts in the roof, you can get an old #5 Camalot up there too if you want (this would be a comforting piece if skipping the bolts). A big cam protects the chimney just fine.

Photos

smassey
CO
smassey   CO
The anchor bolts were replaced summer 2016 with 1/2" x 2.75" SS powers bolts provided by the Boulder Climbing Community. The original Scarpelli buttonheads were removed, and the holes reused. The 1983 pro bolts were left, as modern gear adequately protects the route. Aug 7, 2016
Jay Anderson. Yep! Jun 10, 2016
Jay Anderson  
 
Excellent route, I did the second a couple years after the first and a couple times since. Does it still have the original bolts/ Leeper hangers on the descent/TR anchors? Sep 18, 2015
khoa
Tacomarado
khoa   Tacomarado
I was born again up there. 35 feet but feels like 700. Praise the Offwidth. Nov 15, 2013
jake marlow
laramie
jake marlow   laramie
That is awesome, Pat! Feb 5, 2013
vimeo.com/54724613 Dec 2, 2012
Thoroughly enjoyable article. I think it's appropriate to stick in a link for it under this climb.

petetakeda.com/journal/alpi… Sep 16, 2010